Thread split...
Could you expand a little on when this works ( i.e. measurements) and what grit to use?

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

When doing a valve job and leaving the short block in the car, it is a 'must' to get the block's deck as clean and flat as possible. Most people just scrape the surface clean with a one-edge razor blade and re assemble. A good next step is to pull the alignment dowel pins and lightly sand the deck surface, using sandpaper mounted to a long, wide & flat board. Doing this step will quickly show any high and low spots.

We all know it is best to have the block surface "decked" (machined) flat when it's possible but for an in the car head swap, a good "block sanding" is better then a "scrape and run" job.

I made my "long board" out of a 1 x 4 x 26 inch piece of cabinate grade, straight grained hard wood. I took a piece of used "resin back" sanding belt, cut it to size , streached and stapled it onto the board. I think the current sandpaper is 240 grit.

This is one of the more handy tools I have around the shop, I use it for all kinds of cleaning / sanding jobs.
DD

Thanks Doc, I guess I never thought about doing that.
My first though was having all the abrasive particles from the worn sandpaper and the metal dust causing problems. What additional procautions do you take to keep the debris out of the cylinders while sanding?

(sorry to hi-jack the thread CStryker)

_________________
Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

The "resin back" sanding belt is a wet/dry material so I spray everything down with WD-40 or other solvent and do the sanding wet. You just wipe-up all the "sanding mud" as you work so the slurry does not get into the ring packs.
Washing out the threaded bolt holes is the biggest "time bandit", a can of carb cleaner and compresses air does that job.
DD

No worries on the threadjacking; I was curious as well.

_________________
Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

Amazing that the block could go south so quickly. Did you run out of coolant, or oil?
Timely tip on the block sanding.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

Here is a pic of the "long board" sanding block I made.


Notice how the block in the photo show a "zebra" pattern of high spots which jump righ out once you start sanding.
Here is a close-up of the lightly sanded block surface.
With more work with the sanding board, this surface cleaned-up pretty well.
DD

I didn't run out of either; I just had to keep pushing it hard for another 150 miles or so after the gasket blew in order to make it to where I had to be at a time anywhere near when I was supposed to be there. It was also something that had been developing for several thousand miles before I realized that was the problem.

_________________
Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

hi,is the "corrosion" that is visible in the close up view in all of the block coolant holes , caused from the sanding slurry? ron

The sanding "mud" is a dark brown, the color of the sandpaper on the board, you can see some drip marks down the sides of the cylinders.
The lighter tan scale in the water jackets is the common cooling system "crud" you find in the water jackets of on old SL6 block or head. A good acid etch or hot tanking will clean-out those deposits.
DD