Slant *        6        Forum
Home Home Home
The Place to Go for Slant Six Info!
Click here to help support the Slant Six Forum!
It is currently Mon Dec 29, 2025 2:30 pm

All times are UTC-08:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 6 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 6:13 pm 
Offline
3 Deuce Weber
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 5:12 am
Posts: 63
Car Model:

_________________
225 .030
.020 off the block .100 from head
Comp 264
904 Tranny
New Ebre-ting
Image
http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j103/edrod01/


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 8:21 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24804
Location: North America
Car Model:
Quote:
alternator (60A Reman)
"Reman" parts are usually a good place to start finding problems when you have 'em!
Quote:
The regulator (GP SorrensonVR263) was much thinner than the original and I suspected that is was just a transistorized replacement.
Yep, correct.
Quote:
a test lead is jumped between fld and hot on the alternator , this produced no difference
Suggests the alternator is problematic
Quote:
when I turned my ignition off the car didn’t shut down.
The ignition system was being backfed via your jumper through the field wire. As soon as you would disconnect the jumper, the engine would stop, right?
Quote:
Are these regulators getting heat soaked and crappin’ out?
Probably not, no, but you should check to make sure you've got a good ground between regulator base, alternator housing, and battery negative.
Quote:
Does that diagnostic tell us anything about the charge circuit / ign. switch
Tells us the ignition switch, field wire, and regulator are OK and the alternator is suspect.
Quote:
Any thoughts on the heat issues other than timing?
Well, lack of vacuum advance can cause hot running, but so can inadequate waterflow through the radiator or a collapsing lower radiator hose.

Here, go get a new Mopar alternator or, for 1/3 the price, this American-made new aftermarket replacement instead of getting stuck in an endless cycle of "reman" trash. If you get the Mopar one, it's a '70-up unit, which means you'd either add a second field wire and use the '70+ regulator, or ground one of the new alternator's two field terminals and carry on using your existing regulator. If you get the aftermarket unit, just drop it in.

Sharp-lookin' engine bay, BTW...except for that Chinese chrome valve cover! ;-)

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Image


Last edited by SlantSixDan on Fri Jun 29, 2007 8:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 8:22 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:45 pm
Posts: 135
Location: Vancouver, WA
Car Model:
When you put the new reg in- you state that is was putting out
14 to 16 volts.
16 is a too high and could be
taking out your reg., 14 is pretty normal.

Were was this reading taken, at the alt, relay or at the battery?
Take readings at the above with above engine running, lights
on and off------ and not running.

You can see if your reg is working by just turning on the
key and seeing if it passing voltage to the alt
though the field wire(s)- no voltage at the field wires
reg is not passing voltage, then it is ether not getting
voltage, has poor ground to the case, or is bad
(check the alt fuse in the fuse block also
if no power incoming to reg with key on).

May or may not be the new parts you installed,
seen a lot of rebuilt and new parts bad off
the shelf.
So need some more info to have a better
guess as to what is wrong.

After reading Dans post, I tend to agree
that the alt may be the problem.


Note:
Since the up grades to the later MSD/Mopar system
have you not up graded to the a 2 wire field type
of system alt (or later system)? you really should
if not.
A transistorized type reg is the 'very least' you
should do with a one wire alt with what you
have installed, but is only a stop gap.
However, this may not solve your problem by its self
or at all.

_________________
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron


Last edited by Jeffc on Fri Jun 29, 2007 8:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 8:25 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24804
Location: North America
Car Model:
Quote:
Since the up grades to the later MSD/Mopar system
have you not up graded to the a 2 wire field type
of system alt (or later system)? you really should
if not. A transistorized type reg is the 'very least' you
should do with a one wire alt with what you
have installed, but is only a stop gap.
There's nothing the matter with using the single-field system with electronic or MSD ignition, as long as you've got good, steady regulation.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Image


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 8:55 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:45 pm
Posts: 135
Location: Vancouver, WA
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
Since the up grades to the later MSD/Mopar system
have you not up graded to the a 2 wire field type
of system alt (or later system)? you really should
if not. A transistorized type reg is the 'very least' you
should do with a one wire alt with what you
have installed, but is only a stop gap.
There's nothing the matter with using the single-field system with electronic or MSD ignition, as long as you've got good, steady regulation.
True, but still not as stable as the later systems,
however it is 'worlds' better than the points type.
I have used both types, single and duel, over the years
and have had good luck with both (10+ years
with a old 'race only' MP single wire blue box in my 66D
-came with the truck, 3 years
in my 68D, one MP ign, one pertonix;
however, it still is not a clean or steady as the 2 wire
systems I also run (will be up grading the 68 soon
to the late system)).
A single wire system, even with trans reg, is just not as stable
as the later 2 wire.

I do do more ground mantaince, cable replacements and
regular firewall plug mantaince that most folks
to keep things working right, that is part of the reason
that I have few problems.

_________________
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 9:45 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24804
Location: North America
Car Model:
Quote:
A single wire system, even with trans reg, is just not as stable as the later 2 wire
That has not been my experience. In theory, the 2-field system should be more stable. And it often is, but not always. I've had cars with dead-smooth voltage regulation from single-field systems (with point-type regulators, even!), and I've had cars with flickery voltage regulation from dual-field systems.
Quote:
I have used both types, single and duel, over the years
and have had good luck with both
Same here.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Image


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 6 posts ] 

All times are UTC-08:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited