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 Post subject: tubular arms
PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:57 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:43 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Surprise,Az
Car Model:
i've been reading recently on how to setup my tubular arms on my 73 duster. i have yet to take things apart i'm trying to get every thing for a disk brake conversion. but it cant wait my lower ball joints need to be replaced. i got a set of arms a while back on ebay . "wish i wound have found bills first" my thing is i'm not to sure how to fit them on.they look like bills but i dont think there the same. so i ask can any one please help me with the setup. one more thing will the work on drums for now

Image



i have a set of the lower arms with the tabs and a sway bar that i'll be putting on has well. the only thing i need for my disk are hoses and the rotors. will it matter if the spindels, calipers and adapters came of diffenent cars there were taken of off 73 and a 75?

i've also got this posted on www.bigblockdart.com fourms. i'm just tring to get has much info before i get the duster on the jacks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:13 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:43 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Surprise,Az
Car Model:
has any one had a set if the arms that have been installed? i really need to fix my lower ball joint and when i do that i want to put in the tubular arms and the lower control arms with the sway bar tabs so i can put the sway bar on


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 Post subject: tubular arms
PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 12:20 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2006 5:03 pm
Posts: 28
Location: Vancouver,B.C. Canada
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maybe this can help, its from cap


[/img]
Tech Support Line: 519-978-3537 9am- 9 pm EST daily







Congratulations for purchasing a set of Mopar Upper Control Arms

***Notes of interest during installation. ***

-You will want to keep your old cam bolts that are removed from the existing control arms and re-use them.
-You will need to buy 16 flat washers that are ½ ID. The washers will be used for spacers to make up for the differences between the original attachment points and the new stainless ends.

It will make the job a lot easier to follow the steps outlined below BEFORE you disassemble.

Installation Steps
1) Set the ride height of the car first by adjusting the torsion bars.
2) With the car on a flat surface , measure the distance from the ground to the lower control arm, then cut 2 pieces of 4x4 (wood) the length recorded. These wood pieces will be used later for set up.
3) Lift the car and remove the tire, torsion bars and the factory upper control arms. Install the new set of tubular arms.
4) Use the recommended washers to make up for the space needed to fill between the factory attachment points and the new stainless end. We recommend evenly distributing the washers side to side.
5) Once installed and snugged up, lower the car onto the 4x4 so you have simulated the weight of the car onto the suspension system.
6) When you receive the arms, they are preset to 3 degrees of caster and (-) 1/2 degree camber assuming the car is at the factory ride height.
7) Using a magnetic level and a protractor (device to check angles) adjust the stainless ends close to the settings required. Once adjusted, tune the arms in slightly by using your cam bolts. A typical setting is 3-5 of caster and -1/2 degree camber.
8) To readjust lift the weight off the suspension, and follow steps 5 and 6.
9) It is important to be sure the rough location is set so that the cam bolts are on center of their adjustment. (Ideally, the cam bolts are left with equal adjustment in either direction)
10) Once satisfied with the positions, tighten up all the components.
11) Mount the tires and lower down.

We recommend that the car is then brought in for a professional alignment to complete the installation and final adjustment. Have the alignment shop set the caster to 3-5 degree caster and (-) 1/2 degree camber for best handling.

Street Applications- 3 degree of caster recommended
Street/Strip application- 3 to 4 degree of caster
Strip only- 4-5 degree of caster

***Disclaimer of Warranty***
Neither the seller nor the manufacturer will be liable for any loss, damage or injury directly or indirectly arising from the use or inability to determine these products or their legality. Before using the products, the user shall determine the suitability of the products for its intended use, and the user shall assume any and all responsibility and risk in connection here with.








UNDERSTANDING CASTER and CAMBER

Camber

Camber is the tilt of the tire as viewed from the front of the car. If the top of the tires lean toward the center of the car then you have negative camber. If the top of the tire tilts out away from the center of the car then you have positive camber. Adjusting camber can have a dramatic effect on the cornering of your car. Most oval track racers run negative camber on the right side of the car and positive camber on the left. Optimum camber settings will result in more speed and ideal tire wear. Camber is measured with a caster camber gauge and is usually easily adjusted with shims or adjustable upper a-arms. Always check the toe when making camber or caster adjustments. The amount of static camber that you should run is a result of testing, pyrometer measurements, front suspension geometry and discussions with your car builder. Remember that poor camber settings will cause excessive tire wear. Camber settings set to extremes can reduce the braking ability of the car.
Caster
To understand caster you need to picture an imaginary line that runs from through the upper ball joint and extends through the lower ball joint. From the side view the imaginary line will tilt forward or backward. The tilting of this imaginary line is defined as caster. Caster is measured in degrees by using a caster camber gauge. If the imaginary line described above tilts towards the back of the car, at the top, then you will have positive caster. If the imaginary line tilts forward then you would have negative caster. Positive caster provides the directional stability in your racecar. Too much positive caster will make the steering effort difficult. Power steering will allow you to run more positive caster. Negative caster requires less steering effort but can cause the car to wander down the straightaway.

_________________
mopar or no car
68 Valiant 100 2dr post /6 a-904 susp mods
78 Ramcharger 4x4 360 727 3/4t 33"
67 Charger 383 4bbl 727 trick suspension


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 6:25 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14648
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
The difference between disc and drum brake A-arms is the size of the upper ball joint. The drum brake has the small ball joint and will not work with disc brakes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 6:47 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:43 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Surprise,Az
Car Model:
but doesnt the 73 have the large ball joint? i have an extra set of drum spindels and a set of drum spindels and they seem to fit the same.


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