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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 1:42 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 22
Car Model:
Greetings Dudes,

Techno-challenged new guy/old geezer here. Been reading posts here for a few months and I like it. Low s/n ratio like somebody said, especially compared to Chevelles site which I look at too. Mine's a 318 if you don't mind too much.

This morning driving the freeway, I see the ammeter twitching toward charge, and then pegging on charge. I was about to pull over and shutdown, when it returned to normal. Duration probably less than a minute.

Wondering if it is bad wiring, cheap junk parts, or what before I do anything. Seems like if it was a big short somewhere it would have blown a fuse. I got a 900 mile interstate trip coming up next week, and this is my only transportion

History: Autozone alternator and voltage regulator of unknown brands installed Jan 2001 at approx 150,000 miles. Did same thing as today when on the way to work back in 2005 at 200,000 miles. Caught a ride to Carquest and got a new voltage regulator and installed in the parking lot. Cost less than $15 as I recall. Been working fine since, until today.

I see voltage regulators... two kinds of Standard Motor Parts on RockAuto at $11 and $31, and an AC Delco at $32.

Recommendations? Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 1:53 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24446
Location: North America
Car Model:
Welcome on the board. We won't hold your 318 against ya! :twisted:

Likely causes of this behaviour:

•Your regulator lost its ground, either internally or externally, and/or
•One of your alternator's fields grounded out, either internally (inside the alternator) or externally (via a faulty field wire)

I find it wise to buy good-quality parts. The "remanufactured" alternators and generic regulators and such from parts stores are junk, and I've learnt through bitter experience not to trust them despite the gimmicky "lifetime warranty". Brand-new alternators go by regularly on eBay. The premium Standard regulator is a good pick. So is a NAPA Echlin VR-38. But CarQuest might've sold you a good regulator, too; what'd you get?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 3:30 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 22
Car Model:
Thanks for the welcome!

The failure back in 2001 was New Years day and 30 miles East of Bakersfield, CA went to 10 amps discharge and was spinning Ok, made it in to town, so it was a few options purchase.

Don't know about the last regulator, but it was $12.27 with tax, so probably junk as you said. Guess I'll check the grounding of the box and check the wires as best I can and try to find the good quality regulator and hope it doesn't conk out on top the Siskiyou summit next week. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 5:58 pm 
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Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
If it does it's only 12 miles, all downhill, to Ashland. And only about 28 or so to Medford.

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'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 6:01 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:41 am
Posts: 922
Location: Eureka
Car Model:
Just my 2 cents worth- I buy the "sealed" type voltage regulaters when I replace the ones in the Valiant, and the Barracuda. I got it from Car Quest, and can give you tha part # if you want.....mine are the 2 whire type I am pretty sure.I like the solid state electronic version, because I never seem to have had any good luck with the "box style" ones. The last one I put in was in my barracuda , and that was a year ago, and never had a problem since.
Andrew/Kidd

_________________
Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 6:16 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24446
Location: North America
Car Model:
Quote:
Just my 2 cents worth- I buy the "sealed" type voltage regulaters
The original poster has a '72 Valiant. Sealed electronic regulators became standard equipment in 1970.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:49 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 22
Car Model:
[quote="SlantSixDan"]Welcome on the board. We won't hold your 318 against ya! :twisted:

Likely causes of this behaviour:

•Your regulator lost its ground, either internally or externally, and/or
•One of your alternator's fields grounded out, either internally (inside the alternator) or externally (via a faulty field wire)

I find it wise to buy good-quality parts. The "remanufactured" alternators and generic regulators and such from parts stores are junk, and I've learnt through bitter experience not to trust them despite the gimmicky "lifetime warranty". Brand-new alternators go by regularly on eBay. The premium Standard regulator is a good pick. So is a NAPA Echlin VR-38. But CarQuest might've sold you a good regulator, too; what'd you get?[/quote]

Problem recurred, new voltage regulator fixed it, Standard VR 125, three times the price of the Standard cheapo part number, hope it goes more than 25,000 miles this time. Thanks for the info.


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