Well with my new solid state regulator, I had my complete gauge cluster working perfectly.....for about three days.
I'm driving from work on Friday and my radio cuts off, then back on, this happens a second time. HUH? then the wipers come on . I see my ammeter dipping and pegging and my volt meter is pegged at around 18, so I pulled over into a parking lot, where the horn started honking, lights flashing, the starter began to turn, the car eventually started itself and ideled a few minutes (while the starter was still turning). Finally I wiggled the positive cable off and ended the spectacle. These are shots of the outcome.



As you can see from the pics this was happening because the harness was melting through and energizing all the circuits. I thought, based on the voltmeter readings at the time of the incident, I would be pulling this alternator to find a unit that was vastly overcharging, but when I took it to be tested it was well within spec.

What started this?...Furthermore how do I prevent it from ever happening again in the future?

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225 .030
.020 off the block .100 from head
Comp 264
904 Tranny
New Ebre-ting

http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j103/edrod01/

I had the exact same thing happen in my Valiant back when I was in high school. My dad and I pulled the entire underdash harness and replaced the wires one by one. It still works fine to this day. (This was 10+ years ago) I guess all that old dried out insulation rubbing on the sharp metal under the dash finally rubbed through to the wires and shorted them out . My ammeter had nothing to do with it as it is still the original untouched unit and still working fine. I still have the approx. 1" thick log of melted wire somewhere--its almost as hard as a piece of pipe!

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1966 Valiant 225 2bbl Super Six
1974 Challenger 360 4bbl
2001 Dakota 5.9 R/T

I have had two different 64 Valiants meltdown. I repaired the wiring, changed the voltage regulator, added a fusible link and went back to driving. I posted a message once on here asking if there is a fusible link on these models. Slantsix Dan replied saying that a fusible link was installed by the factory on these cars. However, I don't recall him saying where it was located. I can't find it in the car or on the original wiring diagrams. That doesn't mean it's not there, I am an amateur electrician. Either the original fusible link is not doing it's job as designed or has deteriorated with age.

I am not sure I am installing a new fusible link of the correct size or in the right place because I've never found any definitive info anywhere on these particular models. If anybody out there would make some suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.

On my '66, the fusible link goes from the starter relay stud over to the bulkhead conncector. I'm not sure about the '64, but maybe you can try here.... http://www.mymopar.com/60to65_wiring.htm

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1966 Valiant 225 2bbl Super Six
1974 Challenger 360 4bbl
2001 Dakota 5.9 R/T

Better check the underhood wiring and the bulkhead connector as well.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Oh that picture brings back bad memories, I had my wires fry from the starter to the dash panel, seems the PO left a hot wire hanging under the dash, I brushed it with my hand while replacing some dash light bulbs, and shorted out the main 10 gauge wire, luckily the wire melted through before it fried my entire dash panel. Thought the whole car was going up in smoke!

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1963 4dr Dart 270 225 six w/3speed column shift

You've got your work cut out for you, but I've repaired many Mopar harnesses over the years and it's not that bad once the harness laid out on the floor and all the connectors identified. Factory documentation for the right model and year is essential - the FSM is where to start. Don't forget to check the fusible link and bulkhead feedthroughs for damage - they melt easily.

Other models and years harnesses from salvage yard are a good source of parts and wire of the right gauge and color code. The wrap is NOT electrical tape - it is a non-sticky vinyl I get from Eastwood (old electrical tape is really nasty and messy).

I'd also check the fuse box, ignition switch, headlight switch, and ammeter connections most carefully, just in case the short originated there. From the schematic and knowledge of which wires melted 1st (it should be obvious near the ends of the wires), you can track down the source of the short.

With everything laid out, you can remove the wrapping and isolate the leads and should be able to see source of the problem.

I've seen harnesses with the fusible links replace with lamp cord and similar crude hacks - fix everything properly and carefully and the system will give you many years of dependable service. Sloppy work will almost guarentee you problems down the line.

I just went through this, it wasn't too bad. I have a problem now though; I'm 99% sure that i replaced all the wires correctly, but now my car won't start, and the headlights (which would've come on before without the car started) won't come on. I have power to the ignition switch and ammeter circuit, but the car won't work. Does anyone know approximately what i disconnected or neglected to connect that would cause this?
Thanks,
Allen

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1962 Valiant V-200
170 C.I. Super Six, HEI, Dutra Duals

Boy, there are so many things that could be wrong here, it is hard to know where to start. It may just be a bad ballast resistor that is keeping your car from starting. Get your Factory Shop Manual, and see that the blue ignition wires, and the brown one are hooked up correctly. The brown one is hot for crank. The car will not start if the brown wire is not hooked up.

You must track down all the wires for the headlight circuit and trace them out. Something is just not hooked up now. See if the headlight switch connector is just unplugged on the back.

Sam

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When you say it "won't start", what does/doesn't happen? Does the engine crank but not start (no power to ignition system, at least not through the "start" circuit)? Does it crank and fire but not keep running (ballast resistor)? Does it not crank at all (problem in the starter circuit)?

I don't think you've got a major issue, probably just one or two wires not hooked up correctly (or at all) or an overlooked non-contacting connector somewhere. What else does/doesn't work? Try everything out. Horn, taillamps, brake lights, turn signals, radio, dash lights, heater blower...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I suppose i should've been more clear; when i said the car doesn't fire i meant that it doesn't even turn over, and the ballast resistor is a non-issue as i switched to HEI a little while ago. The headlights don't work (which isn't in the key-on circuit), and everything in the key-on circuit doesn't work either. I have power to the ignition anyway, (i think its wire J-2 or J-2A in the service manual off the top of my head) my multimeter reads about 3.5 volts, which seems kinda low to me (could be due to the lack of a good ground inside the car i guess)?
The only thing that really perplexed me when i was redoing the dash harness was this big connector that was wrapped separately inside the tape; it's a big junction (power junction?) in the FSM and it has the black wire from the ammeter and the ignition power wire hooked up to it as well as some other stuff that i can't remember off the top of my head. All the wires were just sort of pressed together (and melted on either side, requiring replacement). All i did for this was connect the new wires together using a big butt connector and solder, is this ok, or is there some special thing that the factory did that i don't know about?
Please excuse my ridiculously frequent use of brackets haha.
Thanks,
Allen

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1962 Valiant V-200
170 C.I. Super Six, HEI, Dutra Duals

Allen, do you have the FSM? If not you really need to get one for the electrical diagrams, if nothing else. The FSM is sometimes hard to read, especially if the pages are yellowed from age and use; I find a magnifying glass helpful. One thing I remember from my study of the diagram is that the are 3 round connectoras shown on the bulkhead connectory. From memoery I think they are "A", "B", and "A1." These are the main power feed from the battery through the ammeter and back out to the starterm regulator, alternator, etc. The thing I recall without going back and looking is that "B", the center of the 3 round connectors, is not used. Also, bear in mind that the circuits are a little different in Candian built cars. If you need a copy of the circuit diagrams, let me know; I can scan and email them to you.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

It sounds like a fairly simple problem, though one that may be somewhat tedious to chase down and fix. One or more wire(s) is/are improperly connected somewhere in the system. You'll need a continuity tester and a wiring diagram, and you'll have to methodically go through each and every wire to figure out which is/are causing the problem. Start with the main feeds and work downward from there.

You do indeed need the FSM for your specific model and year. See this thread. Good quality, reliable wiring diagrams can be downloaded free from here. If your car is a Canadian-built one made before 1967, its wiring will indeed be a little different than the equivalent US model, as dakight says. The differences are primarily confined to the engine compartment.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan, I'll go and get a continuity tester. I do indeed have all three of those books.
Thanks,
Allen

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1962 Valiant V-200
170 C.I. Super Six, HEI, Dutra Duals