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 Post subject: Tubular strut rods
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 4:38 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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While perusing bigblockdart.com I saw a few posts talking about Bill Reilly's tubular strut rods. Looks like another way to add even more stability to my front end. Any of you guys have experience with them? I figure if I'm going to redo my suspension when I get home, this would be the time to get something like these if they're worth it.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16897
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Yes, they are a nice mod with the heim joints up front. More rigid susp locating and less drag if adjusted properly. Also can replace heims w/o LCA/tbar dissassembly.

I have the heims but used my stock rods. For $50 more, it's worth getting the tubular rods too and saving the hassle of cutting/rethreading your stock strut rods.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:29 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 5:53 am
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Location: Crestline, CA
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I have them on my car, and I am very happy with the results.

Some things to think about:
Heim joints do require extra care. You gotta keep them clean, lubed with a dry lube ( no wd-40, or other oily stuff), etc.

They are adjustable, but that means you gotta find a good alignment shop that understands this. They are a first class B!@h to adjust, due to the stiff nature of the threading, etc. I ended up using a vicegrips on them to get them roughed in. I wish Bill would machine in some flat pads to the sides of the tubing to get a wrench on them.

Greg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:58 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Quote:
I have them on my car, and I am very happy with the results.

Some things to think about:
Heim joints do require extra care. You gotta keep them clean, lubed with a dry lube ( no wd-40, or other oily stuff), etc.

They are adjustable, but that means you gotta find a good alignment shop that understands this. They are a first class B!@h to adjust, due to the stiff nature of the threading, etc. I ended up using a vicegrips on them to get them roughed in. I wish Bill would machine in some flat pads to the sides of the tubing to get a wrench on them.

Greg
From the sounds of what I've read about 'em, it seems you can adjust the caster with these as well. Is that true, or am I wrong here? As far as lubrication, are there no grease fittings on them? On the aircraft I work on, all the heavy load bearing heim joints (think for landing gear doors and flaps) have flush grease fittings on them, which makes them great for keeping in good shape for years. I've never seen a greasable one with any significant wear.

How thick are the walls of the tubular rods? That's a good idea having flat spots machined into 'em for wrenching. I might have to do that if I end up ordering a set.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:45 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 5:53 am
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Location: Crestline, CA
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Caster-- Yes, but find a good shop
Zerks-- No, at least not on mine.
Wall thickness-- Not sure, but really thick. These are some beefy cromoly tubes.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 5:40 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
You have to be really careful adjusting the caster that way. If you pull the LCA too much it will bind up and cause other problems such as premature bushing failure and erratic ride and handling.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 3:45 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Quote:
You have to be really careful adjusting the caster that way. If you pull the LCA too much it will bind up and cause other problems such as premature bushing failure and erratic ride and handling.
That makes sense. I'm going to hold off on the strut rods for now and see how my car handles with all the other upgrades I'm planning on.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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