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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 2:22 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:47 pm
Posts: 236
Location: Mandeville, LA, USA
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1920 is not the carburetor number, it's the carburetor model. There were between 6 and 10 different Holley 1920s used for each of eleven model years' production (1962 to 1973), plus 10 different aftermarket replacement 1920s. Grand total of roughly one hundred different 1920s! Many design aspects and features came, changed, and went during that timeframe. That's why your question is not specific enough to answer yet. If you actually have the two carburetors (and it sounds like you do) then you can find the carburetor numbers by looking at the flat surface of the carb casting, above the fuel inlet fitting. The carb number is four digits, sometimes followed by one or more letters. For example, "2372A".
The above is a quote from August 21, 2007 response to 70Dart from SlantSixDan. I want to rebuild my 1973 Holley 1920 and I've read the posts about what rebuild kits are best. On the side of the carburetor are the numbers 7031 with 1317 underneath. (1317 could actually be 1B17 or 1817, the second digit being hard to read.) Based on this info and the production year, which kit should I buy?

Walker 15480A
Walker 15519A
BorgW 10392A
CRB 25574
CRB 25461
MPF 3533B
SP 14582
Something else.

Carburetor only has 77,000 miles on it yet has not been used since 1990. Is a rebuild necessary?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 3:14 pm 
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The number you need to give us for kit application is the one found here:

Image

(Yes, a rebuild is definitely a good idea at this point -- new float, too.)

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 4:09 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Mandeville, LA, USA
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Dan, that is exactly where I got the numbers. I also thought the combination of numbers with no letter following was strange. Did I miss something?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 5:08 pm 
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Carefully clean up that surface and see what other numbers might show up. Sometimes a Chrysler part number was stamped here, and your 7031 might be part of that; it is an unlikely carb list number. Assuming you do actually have a '73 Holley 1920 (easy tipoff is a small-diameter EGR vacuum nipple on the side about halfway up the carb casting), you'd want a Walker 15519A rebuild kit and Walker 100-14 float.

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 Post subject: Yep...
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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BorgW 10392A
I've used this kit and it's a 'generic' with several gaskets for earlier 1920's and is meant for a wide range of 1920 carbs/years ... used it when rebuilding my 1973 Holley 1920 and it worked fine.

FYI,

-D.idiot


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:44 pm 
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It's actually one of two or three kits Walker make for the 1920. They all cover multiple variants, but none of them covers all variants of the 1920.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:12 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:47 pm
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Location: Mandeville, LA, USA
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I looked at my carb and on the side under the fuel inlet is 12R5592B. I looked in a dart maintenance and repair guide for 1970 to 1976 carbs and I did not see this carb unit number. What rebuild kit for this number?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:52 pm 
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That's not the carb number, which is inboard of the fuel inlet, and above it. Ignore all of the many numbers stamped, cast, written or scribbled anywhere else on the carb.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:35 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:47 pm
Posts: 236
Location: Mandeville, LA, USA
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Quote:
Thanks for everyone’s help on my carburetor acceleration problem. As Dan had suspected it was the accelerator pump plus a few other things I would have never figured out on my own.

At Dan's suggestion I sent it away to be refurbished. Dan suggested I send my Holly 1920 to Max at Buzzard Carburetor. www.buzzardcarburetors.com. Excellent suggestion Dan, Max was a true pro the carburetor came back looking brand new and all the issues were resolved. Max called me several times to be sure he understood exactly the issue I was having.

I bolted the carburetor on and the car started right up and runs perfectly. According to Max the rebuild kits available for this carburetor can have some parts that aren’t always correct, there was also an issue with the economizer assembly body and float spring. I only wished I had done this sooner.
I received the above PM from Family Scamp. I think I'll send the carburetor to Max to rebuild. This carburetor did not have a problem in 1991 when it last ran. I like the idea of bolting it on and it will start right up.


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