Can I replace the rear seal without pulling motor?
I once installed a rope type seal in a Buick 215 & worked out quite good. Thanks

shearnstable@earthlink.net

Yes you can, but you have to pull the drag link, jack up the motor to get the oil pan off. You may have to pull the trans too for clearance, but possibly not. I plan on doing mine fairly soon in my '64 Dart since it's leaking a little, and I plan on at least lifting the motor up a foot or so and disconnecting it from the trans. Probably easier that way.

Lou

madsenl@caltech.edu

The pan comes off easily, what type seal do I use?
Do all the main bearings have to be loosened?
: Lou


Shearnstable@earthlink.net

No need to loosen the bearings, but need to push upper seal out with a soft metal (like aluminum or copper or brass) and rotate new upper seal in w/crank.

Please use the "search" function on this site to find Doug's old posts on this. He has lots of good advice.

Lou

madsenl@caltech.edu

Here is the post I found searching under "key words": Rear Main Seal Leak

This job can be done from the under-side but it is a nasty job. If it is feasable, pull the engine because in the end, it takes about the same amout of time BUT you will have "more control" and a better end result.
Here is the post:
DD
Re: Rear Main Seal Leak
Posted By: Doc
Date: Tuesday, 5 June 2001, at 10:09 a.m.
In Response To: Re: "special" Rear Mains (Will)
:
: Make your own anti leak bearing by using a
: dremel to cut two groves from the grove in
: the bearing to the pan. You can use a big or
: small block anti leak bearing as a sample.
: Will

You can get this main seal leak fixed! Sounds like you should take another shot at resealing the engine using the "grooved" bearing and adjust the oil pressure to the 50-60 PSI MAX. range. ( this will also help reduce the "load" on the oil pump to save a bit of H.P. AND reduce the chance oil pump drive gear failure)

My only other tip would be to carefully check the main seal alignment to the centerline of the crankshaft, I have seen some seals positioned WAAYYY off-center. Sorry to say that this work is done on the engine stand with the crankshaft out.

Are you using the "rubber" or a "rope seal"? This may sound crazy but if the seal's locating groove is off-centerline, a rope seal is a "cheap-fix" just because you can "pack" it to compensate for the mis-alignment, the rubber seal's short "lip" just does not have that range of flexability.

(note that a rubber type seal can be "slipped-in" a bit easer if you insist or doing this repair from the under-side)

One other thing to inspect carefully is the crank's seal surface, most have a light knural (small dents) which can often be to rough for the newer rubber type seals. (this was intended to help the rope seals stay lubed)Inspect the "run-out on this surface and polish it. Next time the crank needs grinding, have this surface "trued-up" with a "kiss grind". (just take a minimum of material so it cleans-up & runs true with the crank's centerline).

One other note, many times I have seen people go after a rear main seal when in fact, the oil was comming from a different place. THe rear cam plug, rear oil galley plug and the "L" seals on the rear main seal cap are all possible "suspects". Check carefully before taking things apart.
DD