Hello all and I must sya this is a wonderful site. Just wanted to know if anyone had suggestions on how to increase Hp w/o losing my shirt. I am in the process of a resto-mod of my 60 Dodge Seneca 4-Door and would like a bit more juice. I contemplated a hyper-pak rebuild, a swap out for a super six and turbocharging. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

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CAK

Here are some threads to get you started. Read up on stuff and use the search, trust me if your thinking about it it's been done. Hyperpak on the cheap will run close to a $800. A turbo won't be a cheap option either. A good machinist go at your head will be the best money to bang ratio. NA builds listed in the matrix get you solid reliable results with a budget that rivals a 350 build. Look up how to recurve your distrubtor.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23314

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ht=#138010

well the turbo's shouldnt cost that much. since you can hit up a junkyard for a 80's TO3 turbo off a 4cly mopar.

reading these 2 articels here got me into wanting to turbo the slant six
http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/slant-six-turbo.html
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/turbo- ... rticle.htm

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1976 Plymouth Feather Duster
2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7l v8

Welcome on the board. To start with, read through this thread for some basic tweaks and improvements to your stock or near-stock '60. Tune-up parts and procedural recommendations are in this thread, and don't forget to adjust the valves.

As for more involved modifications...well, anything's possible, up to and including this. You'll want to think hard and plan your upgrades carefully; see here and here .

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Better make that two of the turbos - as the current owner of the setup of the article on this site, I can tell you that turbo is way too small. It could build 10 psi of boost at 1,500 RPM (below the torque converter stall speed, so you can't really put it to the ground) and ran out of breath by 3,000. Two of the little Mitsubishi turbos might be about right. If I were working with junkyard turbos again, I'd go with a Holset off a Cummins.

Cut and welded iron manifolds have a limited life span, too. This is what eventually happened to Wayne's manifold:



Cracked through about 2/3 of the weld area, as I later confirmed with a little destructive testing. The parts that were still holding it together show up in silver-gray.



At this point, I'm working on an adapter pipe with a flex-joint, with the new (and much larger) turbo to be supported on a bracket hanging off the block so the manifold doesn't have to take the turbo's weld. There are no cast iron welds in the new system, either.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

matt,
Even if drove in a non foot to the floor and only got the engine to 3k. you would still go with a bigger turbo? reading those it was got me to wanting to find another 76 block to do this with...

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1976 Plymouth Feather Duster
2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7l v8

The trouble with this idea is that you'd better be serious about neither wanting to use all the engine's power often nor wanting to take it above 3,000. You might even have to get a tighter torque converter or a numerically lower set of gears. A slant six with a turbo like that will make less power than a good naturally aspirated buildup and feel more like a turbo diesel than a normal slant. I really did not like the way the Dart drove like this.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Matt is correct, if your going to go turbo you need to plan it out and have both feet in. A grand national turbo can still be found on e-bay for a decent price. Something that is misconcepted is people see an evo doing 300hp and they think strapping that turbo on will make their engine do it. If you read the books you need to be a little more specific. Frankly unless you walked in saying I want a turbo engine, which it sounds like you want a hot slant six as your goal. Doug told me that the long rod has been his best engine, he blew up his turbos but the long rods just keep going. NA builds are still impressive so write out your goals again and keep asking questions.

I just recently picked up a '73 Scamp w/ the SL6 engine. I have an extra SL6 engine from the car that I'm going to do a turbo build up on. I'm no stranger to turbocharging, but carb's are fairly new to me. I've owned several turbo RX7's and an 87 Grand National. All were fuel injected and could be modified with a new chip or program downloaded.

I'm going to use a Holset turbo and probably a Holley 2bbl carb (since I'm more familiar w/ those than anything else). Since I have a spare engine, when the build is done, I want to eek out as much horsepower on a stock block as possible using pump gas. I might add a budget water injection system to run more boost, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

I enjoy reading the write-ups and the experiences here!

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1973 Plymouth Scamp

Well I'm a tad bit biased, but if you want as much power as possible with a stock block (look at Shaker223's build) I wouldn't run a 2bl. Sorry but there dinosaurs, if you familar at all with fuel injection I got one word...Megasquirt. Besides the fact that a carb is nothing more than a mechanical preset logarithm for fuel delivery, they were truly meant to run on a NA build. Yes I know they can be modified with probably great results, but by them time you do that you could've put together a ECU and adapted manifold. Who knows maybe some one can trump me, but fuel injection is cool.
I would defintely suggest water injection. The latest build which I call the Challenger is going to incoporate water injection, 20 lbs, and a 50 shot of nitrous. Money and priority is holding me up since I'm in college, but it's definetly moving along since I've almost finished the head.
Once again getting back to a cheap power build, if you look at Matt's small turbo car the money he has in that could put together a nice head and defintely fly into the 5000+rpm range instead of hitting a wall at 3k. Also don't forget about gears, I hate when you map out a budget and forget that a car is a complete working unit, one piece at a time isn't enough.

I'm still looking at all the options and experience here. None of my plans are set in stone. However, I have a VERY small budget for this car. So a Megasquirt or converting to FI isn't a viable option right now. I can fabricate most everything needed for a blow-through turbo setup. I'm definitely going this route, it's just something I want to do. Any forced-induction setup is going to make more power than a NA setup with a block prepped for each setup.

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1973 Plymouth Scamp