The paint on my car isn't bad, but you can tell that it's aged. There are a few light surface rust spots on the nose, but I'm not worried about those.

Here is a picture of my car, for reference:


Do you think buffing the booger green with a power buffer and rubbing compound would at least make it look somewhat decent? I'm gonna sand down and re-paint a new coat of black on the top, but I kind of want to keep the booger green because it's unique and I kind of like it.

Although, if someone had a color code for the booger green mettalic that I have, I could go ahead and fill the dings and spray the whole car. That's what I would like to do, but I would want a 100% match to what I have because I HATE painting door jambs and engine bays.

awesome! and welcome! that is a uber sexy dart! please keep the paint color. many paint shops and body shops can reproduce those clasic mopar insanly odd and crappy colors. hopefully one the sl6 guru's will post how u can do that! nice car man!

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

A power buffer will probably take the paint off.......

Try doing it by hand in a safe spot to see what happens.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Use a Q-Tip, be gentle...

Booger green was a very common color in its day for this model. Got to love the seventies man.

Use hand methods starting with the least aggressive treatments. The paint is most likely thin, and age damaged. Using power buffers will instantly grind down to the primer.


Check on line for restoring old paint methods.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Yep, wjajr's right: Start with the less-aggressive methods and compounds. You may want to buy a bottle of Meguiar's Body Scrub and try that on a small section of the car to see how well it comes up. See this page for a decent comparo of various paint restoratives. The products listed aren't ranked in order of performance, and the test was done in the UK, so some of what's listed can't be had over here. But their experience with the Body Scrub matches mine. I'd suggest you accumulate a whackload of well-washed soft towels for the buffing stage. You can get good sponge-type polish applicators at the auto parts store. Otherwise, you're looking at a lotta Q-tips!

Paint code for your particular shade of booger green will not be hard to find...just tell us what year your car is! (Better yet: post the contents of the fender tag — that's the 2" x 3" metal plate on the driver's side inner fender, with all the alphanumerics on it — and we can decode not just the paint colour but all the equipment your car was built with. See this thread for an example).

Me, I am glad to see booger green (as we're calling it) returning to popularity. My favourite variety is Jeep's current metallic "Rescue Green", which varies from green to gold depending on how much light hits it and your viewing angle:

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Puppy doo brown, anyone.

Yep thats my paint color.

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

the car's a 1974, and here is a high res picture of the fender tag.



and here is a close-up picture of the actual paint. It has kind of a gold flake in it that really shines when the sun hits it. That's why I want to save the paint, because it's a metallic-ish color like I've never seen before.



and here's an engine bay shot just for fun that shows everything.. the motor was rebuilt in '98 (has a tag on it), so I'm gonna clean it up and re-paint it that awesome looking blue color. Oh, and yes the a/c still works!

E24: 225 1-barrel 6-cylinder engine
D34: TorqueFlite automatic transmission
L: Dodge Dart
H: High price/trim class
41: 4-door sedan
C: 225 CID 105hp single 1bbl 6-cylinder engine
4: 1974 model year
R: Built at Windsor, Ontario, Canada
229940: Vehicle serial number
KJ6: Main body paint code, Avocado Gold Poly (metallic), PPG # 2632
F: "F class" interior trim (don't know exactly what this means)
4: Vinyl split bench seat w/centre arm rest
X9: Black upholstery
DX9: Upper door frame paint code: Black, PPG # 9300
227: Build date February 27, 1974
271261: Vehicle order number
V1X: Full black vinyl roof
U: Built to US market requirements
22: 22" radiator
B41: Front disc brakes
F11: 50-amp alternator
H51: Air conditioning, integrated w/heat
M21: Roof drip rail mouldings
M38: Deck lid finish panel mouldings
V5X: Black-insert body side mouldings

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Some years ago we used some stuff called "Renew" on old faded maroon paint. It improved the appearance tremendously, but when we tried to wax it, it turned cloudy looking immediately, so we just left it w/o wax.

It smells like some organic solvent, and I've seen it still on the shelf of my local parts place; I'd give it a try if less drastic solutions fail.

Doing it by hand is good advice...and it is cheaper than a gym membership. Hard to tell from the picture, but your car looks pretty good, perhaps a careful waxing is all it needs. You can always cut/compound/buff after the waxing if you aren't happy with the results from waxing. I find that color oddly pleasing to the eye on that body style...

I think preservation is the key with a car like yours, keep the rust monster at bay, and then when you are ready you can see about a proper paint job. For what it is worth, do the paint because you want to--you will never get your money back from it. Another way to rationalize new paint is to compare the "new car feel" to the payments of a truly new car, looking at it this way will make you feel good about painting.

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Slanted D150

Go here:

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/formu ... lookup.cfm

Sherwin-Williams makes quality automotive finishes and they have your "Booger Green" in their mix list.

Just enter the code: AY70KJ6

Looks like a number of paint flavors are available in that color.

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Slanted D150