Hi Michael here (fomerly featherduster76) outta NC,

Okay I' sadly didnt get to make it to farmington because the duster is tore down and Im kinda between jobs at the moment and money way tight. Anyways Im planning the next engine and here's what I got so far or what I have planned. This seems like it'll be a pretty strong slant.

1973 225 bored .040 over,stock type pistons and moly rings (cant swing a $600 set of slugs), balanced steel crank bottom end,reconditioned rods w/arp bolts, crank scraper, Mopar performance 528 cam & lifters,rollmaster double roller timing chain, mallory unilite distributor and hyfire ignition,romac balancer, ported head with oversize valves and 340 valve springs(?) w/ around .120 shaved and .060 decked from the block, offy intake and modified 600 holley carb, hooker super comp headers,msd coil,8.8 race wires,etc etc. Head and main studs by Arp will be used a well. The rear will be 4.56 and the trans will be a 904 w/a manual reverse valve body,5.1 kickdown lever and 4000rpm stall converter. Car weight is estimated around 2800 but more reduction is coming soon (or maybe a lighter body!) Have a '71 duster as of now. Also will be using the low gear set for the 904 as well.

I know some of these items may sound expensive but I listed them because I already got 95% of the stuff listed and thats only cause I got a deal on them and have been collecting parts for the last 4 years. So anyways Im guessing on the input on the amount to shave the head and block by input of others. Lets hear more ideas here. Also can anyone reccomend a good place to get pushrods?? I have some erson pushrods but dont think they will work well being stock length and all. Point me in the right direction...thanks..

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It is better to think about the compression it terms of what static compression ratio is needed for the cam. That MP .528 will need 10.5 - 11 to 1 C/R so you will need to mock-up and measure things, to be sure you are getting that amount of compression.

BTW... that MP .528 is known for shredding oil pump drive gears, many have had problems with that cam failing the drive gear in the first 500 miles. Use the hardened or bronze OP gear and "lap it in". Carefully check the gear mesh contact pattern upon cam installation.

The only other comment, head porting work with oversize valves will be needed to make this combo of parts work well.
DD

Thanks Doc,

*Where can I get the hardened op gear??

*Mopar 528 cams are strange because I've heard a couple of instances where they damaged stuff. And then there has been mopar 528's that have been trouble free. I heard that the earlier ones were ok, but the later ones can be trouble. I think mine is from 1990 so it's probably ok??

Sounds like a great combo, Michael.

0.180" total mill will give you over 11:1 with stock pistons. For street use, I bet you can get into the 10.5-11:1 range with 0.140-0.170" total mill, but without measuring everything, that's just a guess. Actually, I think you could run 11.5:1 on pump premium with that cam, if ign timing is dialed in.

In a 2800 lb car with good headwork as Doc mentioned, all that should get you handily into the 13s.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I have those "in stock", send me a PM for details.
DD

Oh yes...I forgot to mention I'll be running a mopar performance high volume pump to with modified oil pan. I'll have more questions so stay tuned.

FYI if you have a mp pump it's nothing more than a melling unit thats been relabeled and sold by mopar performance. I got a pretty good deal though...

Thanks Lou,

So the block being decked at .060 and the head .120 for the .180 total would bring the engine to you'd say around 11:1? Thats kinda where Im guessing to with the .040 overbore but Im still gonna have to figure in my pushrod length as well. Now it sounds like I gotta get this plan into action.

Better check the deck height and combustion chambers. .080" off my head and .100" off the block is going to net me 10:1 with a .040" head gasket and stock bore.

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Joshua

As Josh says, measure everything...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988