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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 12:40 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Hi all,

I am in the home stretch of the T5 swap. The starter will go, but it doesn't seem to be engaging the flywheel. It is a standard 122 tooth flywheel. Is there some adjustment to the solenoid to push into engagement more forcefully? What else should I check?

Thanks,

Greg


Last edited by gmader on Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:26 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I think that I wasn't clear enough here in the hints that I have:

1. The starter spins.

2. The flywheel doesn't.

3. It sounds like there might be metal to metal contact, but it might be just the starter unimpeded. I think the solenoid is pushing.

4. It is an old, original gear reduction starter.

5. The flywheel is an old, small ID flywheel for early crankshafts.

6. The whole shebang worked when I had the Auto transmission in place.

Does this help? Any ideas?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 7:05 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Did You space the Flywheel out from the Crank at all and OR did you Put an adapter between the Bellhousing and the Block??

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 7:48 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Quote:
Did You space the Flywheel out from the Crank at all and OR did you Put an adapter between the Bellhousing and the Block??
Nope, and nope. I am using Lou's adapter, which fits between the bellhousing and the transmission.

That is why I am a bit baffled.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:42 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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A bit more info, and a new question:

I laid underneath the car, and looked up. It appears that the starter gear is too close to the flywheel ( or "low", depending how you want to think about it), so that the face of the starter gear is rubbing against the front of the flywheel. It looks like it needs to be slightly "higher" ( the axis of the starter needs to be further from the flywheel).

I tried remounting the starter in the bellhousing (a late, aluminum, OD 833 model), and messed with it a bit, but didn't see any improvement.

So, my main question: Was there a different reduction starter, with fewer teeth/smaller diameter gear that was used for other flywheels?

Subquestion: Should I try filing the crap out of the starter mount holes, and create some space that way? I think this is a recipe for problems down the road, but hey, it is worth thinking about.

Thanks,

Greg


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:47 pm 
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Guru
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Where did you get the flywheel?
Are you sure it is the 122 tooth unit or is it the early "direct drive" starter's flywheel?
Confirm the tooth count.
DD


Last edited by Doc on Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 5:40 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I got the flywheel from Mr. Sandy of BC. I will page him, and see if he has any insight.

edit
Quote:
That wheel is the original out of my 65 Valaint....it should be in good shape.
From Sandy.


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 Post subject: 148 tooth!! SANDY!!
PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:41 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Well, I am boned. I got a 148 tooth flywheel, and I have a late, OD 883 new bellhousing. Is there a starter that will work on this? Or, do I need to take all this apart, and get a new flywheel?

Greg


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:51 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Jeeze Im sorry Greg......I thought it was just a regular flywheel for an early motor. Mebbe its one of those weird Canadian Prestolite starter things.

Paging Dan Stern!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:53 pm 
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Im using the bell that came with that flywheel with a mini starter......how can that work?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:03 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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I am over the initial "assault and battery" phase, Sandy, so you are safe. Agreed, we need Mr Stern to help us make sense of this.

From your note way back when, you said this flywheel was original on your 65 valiant. If it was a Canuk Valiant, yep, I think they were using Prestolite direct drive starters, according to my searches.

It makes sense that the flywheels would have more teeth, as I don't think the direct drive starters made as much torque, and needed more mechanical advantage.

I do think that I am boned here. :(


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:11 pm 
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I need to dig in the slant pile and see if I have the starter......

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 5:31 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

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Location: Raleigh, NC
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gmader, (and sandy)

I have seen you guys' postings for several years and that confirms to me you are true slant lovers. It so happens I have the flywheel you need for your 833OD. It is a large hub hole flywheel, recently surfaced and run in my 833OD 4speed setup. I am getting rid of a literal ton of parts I am not gonna use and would be pleased to put it in your house. I just sent a small hub hole flywheel to a forum member n Nevada and shipping was $24.10 ground rate.
If you want a good cheap flywheel I know will work fine, PM me. I have a few new B+B 10 inch clutch sets for the 833 too, if you want one.

rock
'64d100


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:30 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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HI Rock,

Thanks for the offer, but I have an early crank, and need a small hub flywheel. Also, I don't really want to have to rip the whole thing apart again, at least right now. I am waiting to see if Sandy can find a starter that might work, and that will get me by for now.

Thanks,
Greg


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:24 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Oh, Ok,

I have the stock Mopar starter that was on my truck before I took all that stuff off for a 4 speed. I would be glad to give it to you for shipping. I had the small hub flywheel ('64) and a low mount starter on the heavy cast iron truck bell. I gave a fellow the flywheel and clutch set but it seems to me the flywheel was for a 13 inch clutch and had 140 sumpin teeth. The starter didn't seem any different to me than any other Mopar old style starter (as opposed to small high torque), but I can look. I know one style I have has the can solonoid, one has what I call an 'integral looking" solonoid, and I have several of each. I will count teeth on solonoid and measure how thick the flywheel gear is and its diameter if you want one. Shipping from NC to CA likely to be about $25.

rock
'64d100


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