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Forum locked  This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 8 posts ] 
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 Post subject: vibration help!!!!!!!
PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2001 3:54 pm 
just got thru putting rings and bearing in a 77 model slant 6. engine runs good and sames to run smooth at a idle but give it much gas and it has a pretty bad vibration in it. the engine was put in a 87 model dodge van. i did notice that when i had the engine apart that when #1 piston was at TDC that the balancer was between 6 to 8 degrees off on the timing tab. i do have another balancer off an 82 model engine that i could try if some of you think that this is the problem? in fact i'm going to try that tommorrow i think.

also when i got the van it had a broke connecting rod that cracked the block so i got the 77 model engine to go in it. is there a difference in the torque converters for these years? i did'nt notice any weights on the converter or there suppose to be some for a 77 model engine?

buddy_37@hotmail.com


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2002 6:30 am 
Quote:
: 77 model slant 6./---/ engine was put in a 87 model dodge van./---/I do have another balancer

off an 82 model engine that i could try if some of you think that this is the problem?
**************************************************
Questions.....Did you have the original '77 vintage balancer for the '77 engine? Did you put an '87 balancer on a '77 engine/crank assy.? I am presuming you used the '77 block and crank together, is this true?

I'm leaning toward a difference between balancers, but it's possible the outer ring "slipped" in relationship to the center hub on the balancer. It has been known to happen, but usually with rather old balancers.

This may be a question better fielded by Doug, and he'll probably jump in here if I'm wrong. Mopar went to a cast crank in later years, but I can't remember what year. I'm suspecting you have a cast crank balancer on a steel crank engine.

Any other/better opinions?

Roger


GTS225@aol.com


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2002 7:39 am 
Quote:
: off an 82 model engine that i could try if some
: of you think that this is the problem?
:
: **************************************************
: Questions.....Did you have the original '77
: vintage balancer for the '77 engine? Did you
: put an '87 balancer on a '77 engine/crank
: assy.? I am presuming you used the '77 block
: and crank together, is this true?
:
: I'm leaning toward a difference between
: balancers, but it's possible the outer ring
: "slipped" in relationship to the
: center hub on the balancer. It has been
: known to happen, but usually with rather old
: balancers.
:
: This may be a question better fielded by Doug,
: and he'll probably jump in here if I'm
: wrong. Mopar went to a cast crank in later
: years, but I can't remember what year. I'm
: suspecting you have a cast crank balancer on
: a steel crank engine.
:
: Any other/better opinions?
:
: Roger


'77,'82, and'87 are all cast crank motors. I have run cast crank balancers on steel crank motors with no problems. We have never been able to find any difference between cast and steel crank balancers. (This topic has come up before) I would investigate the ring slipping theory. Dennis


slantzilla@excite.com


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2002 12:46 pm 
Quote:
: just got thru putting rings and bearing in a 77
: model slant 6. engine runs good and sames to
: run smooth at a idle but give it much gas
: and it has a pretty bad vibration in it. the
: engine was put in a 87 model dodge van. i
: did notice that when i had the engine apart
: that when #1 piston was at TDC that the
: balancer was between 6 to 8 degrees off on
: the timing tab. i do have another balancer
: off an 82 model engine that i could try if
: some of you think that this is the problem?
: in fact i'm going to try that tommorrow i
: think.
:
: also when i got the van it had a broke
: connecting rod that cracked the block so i
: got the 77 model engine to go in it. is
: there a difference in the torque converters
: for these years? i did'nt notice any weights
: on the converter or there suppose to be some
: for a 77 model engine?


The converter and balancer should be the same. I have seen some real late model cast iron pulleys with a big weight cast onto them, does your Van use one of these?

Do you see any wobble in the front damper, you may as well swap it if you have a replacement. (use the correct tools!)

You may want to run a compression check on the engine, just to be sure there is not a low compression cylinder causing the problem. Hopefully there is not a bent con rod or a badly "off-weight" piston in there.

I would also pull-off the flex plate / T. converter dust cover and double check the converter alignment. Loosen the four flex plate bolts a few turns. Do you see any gap opening up betwen the flexplate and converter mounting lugs? See if you can push the converter up & down, (a big screw driver or pry bar will help) Basically you need to be sure the converter nose seated "on center" in the back of the crank. Never pull the converter into the back of the crank with the flexplate bolts, it should all pull together with no gap so the bolts can be screwed in fully by hand.

You can start the engine with the converter inspection cover off and check to see if everything is spinning true. I spend a bunch of time getting all the alignment correct on high RPM SL6 engines. I check run-out with a dial indicator to see how far-off the factory was with this stuff. I always do some adjusting because it is never right on center. The factory service manual even shows how to check and adjust the engine to trans. alignment and it is important for both manual and automatic applications.

I had one set-up recently where the block to tranny bellhousing mounting face was not square. I ended-up using brass shim stock and a "more flexable" flex plate to get rid of most all of the vibration (still have a bit at 72 MPH then it goes away??)
I would not "drill and slice" a flex plate (as pictured below) for a high output race car but this is a pretty good trick for a smooth running street set-up.
DD


Image


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2002 3:08 pm 
Quote:
: '77,'82, and'87 are all cast crank motors. I
: have run cast crank balancers on steel crank
: motors with no problems. We have never been
: able to find any difference between cast and
: steel crank balancers. (This topic has come
: up before) I would investigate the ring
: slipping theory. Dennis


first of all i want to say thanks to you guys for trying to help with this problem. i heard it said before that there's no difference in the balancers but i have two that are different. i thought there was no difference so i did'nt really pay attention to which one i pulled off the 77 or 82 model engine and i just picked one up and put it on the engine when i built it. the difference between the two i have is that one is flat on the front with a small half moon cut out on the front out ring it is probably only maybe 1 1/2 or maybe two inches at the must from one side to the other on the cut out section. anyway the other one is beveled in where the front pulley mounts but it has no cut out section on the outer ring. anyway i tried the one with the cut out today and it still has a pretty bad vibration once the rpm start getting up very much. i think i try doug's theory on the converter to crankshaft alingment but i'm up to more suggustions. it seems to vibrate the worst from say 2500 to 3500 which is just a guess because i have no tach on it. runs smooth idleing and has great oil pressure and runs cool if i can just get this vibration out of it.

also it does'nt have no weights on the pulleys and i did use the 77 model crank and block together it was a running engine that i just done a rering and bearings on but i bought it after the engine was alrerady out of the car it had been in so i never seen it run before but the bearings were in pretty good shape when i tore it down so it must not have vibrated before or i would think the bearing would have been worn more.

buddy_37@hotmail.com


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2002 2:26 pm 
Quote:
: The converter and balancer should be the same.
: I have seen some real late model cast iron
: pulleys with a big weight cast onto them,
: does your Van use one of these?
:
: Do you see any wobble in the front damper, you
: may as well swap it if you have a
: replacement. (use the correct tools!)
:
: You may want to run a compression check on the
: engine, just to be sure there is not a low
: compression cylinder causing the problem.
: Hopefully there is not a bent con rod or a
: badly "off-weight" piston in
: there.
:
: I would also pull-off the flex plate / T.
: converter dust cover and double check the
: converter alignment. Loosen the four flex
: plate bolts a few turns. Do you see any gap
: opening up betwen the flexplate and
: converter mounting lugs? See if you can push
: the converter up & down, (a big screw
: driver or pry bar will help) Basically you
: need to be sure the converter nose seated
: "on center" in the back of the
: crank. Never pull the converter into the
: back of the crank with the flexplate bolts,
: it should all pull together with no gap so
: the bolts can be screwed in fully by hand.
:
: You can start the engine with the converter
: inspection cover off and check to see if
: everything is spinning true. I spend a bunch
: of time getting all the alignment correct on
: high RPM SL6 engines. I check run-out with a
: dial indicator to see how far-off the
: factory was with this stuff. I always do
: some adjusting because it is never right on
: center. The factory service manual even
: shows how to check and adjust the engine to
: trans. alignment and it is important for
: both manual and automatic applications.
:
: I had one set-up recently where the block to
: tranny bellhousing mounting face was not
: square. I ended-up using brass shim stock
: and a "more flexable" flex plate
: to get rid of most all of the vibration
: (still have a bit at 72 MPH then it goes
: away??)
: I would not "drill and slice" a flex
: plate (as pictured below) for a high output
: race car but this is a pretty good trick for
: a smooth running street set-up.
: DD


well changing the balancer had no effect so i took a look at the balancer and torque converter while the engine was running at a high idle both looked good and steady but it does'nt vibrate until a higher rpm anyway and i was by myself with no way to crawl underneath and keep the rpm's up.

so i took out the converter bolts and the converter has a gap between it and the flexplate with the bolts out. you just can get the converter bolts started back in the converter when its loose. but the converter turns freely by hand but when i turn the engine by hand the converter turns with the engine also without any bolts in it. i tried spinning the converter with the starter without the bolts in it to see if maybe this would help aline if it was off some. when i started the bolts back in the converter there still was enough gap that they just would start with a couple of threads. so i would make a couple turns with a wrench on each bolt trying to bring it to the flexplate evenly as possible but this did'nt help.

also with this transmission i can turn the engine while its in park at the balancer with a wrench but with the rear jacked up and in park you can't turn the driveshaft does this sound like i have something broke in the transmission?

it shifts fine i don't know what else to do has anyone ever had a converter cause a problem like this?

buddy_37@hotmail.com


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2002 5:24 pm 
Quote:
: well changing the balancer had no effect so i
: took a look at the balancer and torque
: converter while the engine was running at a
: high idle both looked good and steady but it
: does'nt vibrate until a higher rpm anyway
: and i was by myself with no way to crawl
: underneath and keep the rpm's up.
:
: so i took out the converter bolts and the
: converter has a gap between it and the
: flexplate with the bolts out. you just can
: get the converter bolts started back in the
: converter when its loose. but the converter
: turns freely by hand but when i turn the
: engine by hand the converter turns with the
: engine also without any bolts in it. i tried
: spinning the converter with the starter
: without the bolts in it to see if maybe this
: would help aline if it was off some. when i
: started the bolts back in the converter
: there still was enough gap that they just
: would start with a couple of threads. so i
: would make a couple turns with a wrench on
: each bolt trying to bring it to the
: flexplate evenly as possible but this did'nt
: help.
:
: also with this transmission i can turn the
: engine while its in park at the balancer
: with a wrench but with the rear jacked up
: and in park you can't turn the driveshaft
: does this sound like i have something broke
: in the transmission?
:
: it shifts fine i don't know what else to do has
: anyone ever had a converter cause a problem
: like this?


Dan,

As the good Doc mentioned, you may have to put spacers between the flex plate and converter mounting points. I have used big flat washers about 1/16"-1/8" thick, ground so as not to interfere with the starter gear or bellhousing. Sounds like you are pulling the converter too close against the crank and inner part of the flex plate. I have seen vibrations from this sort of thing too.

Also, if you can't turn the wheels with the rear up and trans in Park, then you almost certainly have a SureGrip rear end (limited slip).

Good luck,

Lou

madsenl@its.caltech.edu


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2002 9:46 pm 
Quote:
: I took out the converter bolts and the
: converter has a gap between it and the
: flexplate with the bolts out. you just can
: get the converter bolts started back in the
: converter when its loose. The converter
: turns freely by hand but when i turn the
: engine by hand, the converter turns with the
: engine also without any bolts in it. I tried
: spinning the converter with the starter
: without the bolts in it to see if maybe this
: would help aline if it was off some. when i
: started the bolts back in the converter
: there still was enough gap that they just
: would start with a couple of threads. so i
: would make a couple turns with a wrench on
: each bolt trying to bring it to the
: flexplate evenly as possible but this did'nt
: help.
:
: also with this transmission i can turn the
: engine while its in park at the balancer
: with a wrench but with the rear jacked up
: and in park you can't turn the driveshaft
: does this sound like i have something broke
: in the transmission?


Something is wrong with the converter to crank hub interface.
The converter is centered and supported by the counterbore in the back of the crank, the nose of the converter needs to slide completly into that rear crank hole. Bending the flexplate ears out to meet an unsupported converter is trouble. (vibration and then the possibility of a broken flex plate)

Something must be interfering, a dinged-up converter nose or counterbore. There could be "crud" build-up in the counterbore. I once had an old pilot bushing cause this, the bushing was not pressed all the way into the smaller inner hole and kept the converter from fully seating.

Can you slide the converter back into the front of the transmission then inspect as much nose as you can see?

I have seen many cases of poor machining on both the converter hubs (nose) and at the crank counterbore. (a rough 45º with a big burr leading into the counterbore) You can try to work-in the converter by carefully prying it forward while rotating the engine, wiggle, jiggle, push the converter up and down, in & out, slam it forward etc. See if you can get it to seat without having to pull everything apart.

When everything is correct, you should be able to slide that converter all the way into it's supporting crank hole, it will even go past the flexplate if the converter mounting blocks are in between the flex plate "ears".

This is not any fun, I've been there and had to pull the engine or drop the tranny to get the problem corrected. These days, I always check this interface area carefully before trying to mate a different engine / trans combo together.

As for the front of the trans rotating while in "Park" that is OK. (no pump pressure = no ingagement when the engine is not running)
DD


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