73 Dart with stock electronic ignition.

Driving home from Los Angles, about 100 miles the car ran fine for 50 miles until I stopped in traffic. Car died, no spark. Towed car off freeway, doubled checked all connections I could find. Everything seemed tight and the car would still not start.

Walked a mile to the parts store, got test light. Got power at ballast resister, coil and every other place that I could think of to look. Tried starting it again and it fired to life about 2 hours after it originally died. Drove home, car ran fine. Has worked fine for the last two days.

I have doubled checked everything. Can't find anything wrong.

Any ideas?

Heat-induced failure of one of your ignition components. Control module, distributor pickup coil, or ignition coil. Works fine when it's cold, starts to fail when it heats up.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Another possibility: Rust and dirt in the fuel can temporarily clog the fuel filter, then fall off after a rest and allow a restart.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

firewall bulkhead connector bad contacts, heat soak as it was hot as crap this week, the ghost of mopar wiring, dirt or rust in the gas tank

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63 valiant v200 Wagon 9.5, Schneider cam, E.I. 22 mpg all day

not as long as there's no spark.

throw away your testlight and buy a multimeter. keep it on the seat so that when your ignition system fails you can properly test the components. a test light will not allow you to do that.
you not only want to verify power, you also need to verify ground, continuity and resistance of the components.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.