Do all /6 use the same balancer bolt/washer? Im missing mine and dont really want to set the motor up on the parts counter to be matched up.

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Buying other peoples junk so you dont have to.

Not all slants came with the bolt/washer.

You can use one from any Mopar small block — same part, and easy to find.

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vm

So are you saying on some engines the balancer is just pressed on? I just noticed the other day that it was missing, just a threaded hole in the end of the crank. What really bothered me is that the accesory pulley that bolts to the balancer would capture the washer even if the bolt backed out but there is no washer either. Either way, I want a bolt on there. Thanks.

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Buying other peoples junk so you dont have to.

As long as you're looking for a bolt, try to find one of the long ones that came on some V8s. That's what I use to draw the damper onto the crankshaft when I rebuild an engine.

The bolt is nothing fancy , 3/4-16 grade 8 . I got mine at OSH .

Steve

Yup,3/4 fine at the hardware store.On my junk the bolt pulls the balancer on then removed,acc pulley goes on with 3 bolts then the big bolt an washer goes on again so washer/bolt is on top of acc pulley.At least thats whats up on my 80 an 83 slants

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Your bolt is not "missing", it was never there in the first place. All slant-6 vibration dampers are an interference ("press") fit. You can install a bolt if you like, to make it easier to turn the engine over by hand for tuning and diagnosis, but there's no need of a bolt for any other purpose.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

a grade 8 bolt is unnecessary, a grade 5 bolt will be cheaper.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Several previous posts on this site suggested using a 3/4" - 16 2 1/4" long bolt. My hardware store only had 2 1/2", so I bought the longer bolt. Now the fan blade hits the 2 1/2" bolt when I turn the damper by hand. I very sure the 2 1/4" bolt would have allowed the blade to clear the bolt.

My damper will not have the bolt left on after I complete timing.

how deep is the bolt well? you only need to penetrate the threaded well the same thickness as the bolt for optimum pullout strength, and given what you can do with the bolt when it's installed any length shorter than 2&1/4" would have worked.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.