okay, this is infuriating since it seems like every few months I have to deal with an electrical issue on my '66 dart.
To begin car stats:
66 dodge with rebuilt 225.
car has been upgraded to a '73 model charging and ignition system, all electrical, with new wiring harness to match, all about 2 years ago.

alternator: new
battery: old
voltage regulator: new
ballast resistor: new
igntion module: new
starter: new

problem:
sometimes she starts, and sometimes she doesn't turn over. I either get a trouble free start up, or like today I get a mini-jack-hammer as performed by my starter. My wife tried to drive her yesterday and she said it just would click (jack-hammer) so when I got home from work I got in, turned the keys, and she started after turning over all of one time, fired right up. She goes to start it this morning to drive to school and she got jack-hammer again. so....
either my car is the new Christine (dart version), I am Fonnzie, or something is not right with the electrical (or she is doing something I am not aware of when she is started the car).

Help please I am lost.

Caesar

Corroded and/or internally-broken battery cable(s), or a faulty "remanufactured" starter.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You list the battery as "old",how old? Batteries are know to do some strange things when getting up there in years/useage/charge cycles etc.

_________________
83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

car started with jump start. 18voolts at battery while running

That's way too high. You have voltage regulation issues to chase down, as it seems.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You say your voltage regulator is new, is it just a cheap replacement? I had a cheap new one and I was lucky that it didn't fry my batt!

_________________

'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels

tested battery at Kragen and it had 203 of 630 cranking amps. Temp of battery was 138 F* after two minutes of driving. Replaced battery and regulator, battery under warranty. Started, rechecked with multimeter and now I am at 16.5 volts at terminals at idle close at 17 volts.
Should I just pony up for Chrysler genuine regulator? Had one before but dad took it and put it in his swinger.
I don't want to deal with this again if I don't have to.
What next?

That is still awfully high. I think spec is in the mid-high 13's ?

Try to run a jumper wire between battery negative, the alternator, and base of the regulator. If there's poor grounding between the parts of the system it can cause improper charging. Some regulators come coated in paint front and back, preventing a good ground. May need to scratch the paint off the back if yours is like this.

14.4v I think is spec. Anything over that is still way high. I would suggest going for a factory regulator if you can find one. I have one from Sears that was installed back in the 80's sometime, and it still works flawlessly to this day.

I wouldn't recommend Niehoff either, they are known by a few to "explode" headlights.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing