The rearend in our Duster was making some noise and I'm thinking we should just go ahead and rebuild it has it is going to be driven a lot. What should I replace and where is the best place to buy everything we need to do it.
Thanks, Marty

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06 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7 HO
Airaid Intake, 50 Series FlowMaster Muffler.
Fastman 68.5 TB
Bed Extender
03 Neon SE
AEM Cold Air Intake, 80 Series FlowMaster Daul Outlet Muffler
1974 Duster w/318 (needs lots of TLC)
1974 Duster W/225

On the 7 1/4 rear the axle shaft bearings are permanently sealed and are the first things that go bad.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

If I remember right there are 2 sizes of axle bearing depending on rear brake drum size. I got mine thru NAPA, they came with retainer. I would pull the axles and check the bearings for roughness while turning and slop. On mine you could hear the bearing clicking, plus it was hot to the touch. I know NAPA carried the pinion bearing also as the wanna be parts man tried telling me it was an axle retainer/rear wheel bearing.

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Thanks Mike

You might want to check the spider gears. It's a weak design. At www.ceoffroad.com sets are still available.

You do need a bearing adjuster tool to set up the differential and have the bearings pressed on the shafts. I tried for hours using a steel pipe and a hammer. It didn't work.

We pulled the axle shafts out and took the rear diff. cover off and the only I have is I'm not sure what it should or shouldn't sound like or feel like? And it looks like the gears are 2.74? If I remember right as the car is not here with me so I can't check the tag again.
Can I put something like maybe a 3.55 set in? And just rebuild the whole rear end.

_________________
06 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7 HO
Airaid Intake, 50 Series FlowMaster Muffler.
Fastman 68.5 TB
Bed Extender
03 Neon SE
AEM Cold Air Intake, 80 Series FlowMaster Daul Outlet Muffler
1974 Duster w/318 (needs lots of TLC)
1974 Duster W/225

Different gear sets are available.

And these links might help to give you some idea of what it should feel like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-RyFBZWSYM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8bLFqSdgYI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PgMVP596mw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5_0FYWgWI8

It is not that easy to get it properly adjusted. It is a good idea to ask someone who has done this before. You'll need the proper measuring tools, marking compound, adjusting wrench... and a shop manual.

Changing the pinion bearing is a pain.

Thanks for all of the replies guys and the videos, I'm still lost but not as much as I was! LOL Maybe I'll pull the rear end and take it to a shop here in town and have them go through it.

_________________
06 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7 HO
Airaid Intake, 50 Series FlowMaster Muffler.
Fastman 68.5 TB
Bed Extender
03 Neon SE
AEM Cold Air Intake, 80 Series FlowMaster Daul Outlet Muffler
1974 Duster w/318 (needs lots of TLC)
1974 Duster W/225

mine was worse, the retainer that held the balls together basically exploded and the balls were rolling around loose!! and i was still driving it... but i got very very lucky cause they were wearing the races out when i changed em.

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1975 Plymouth Duster,225/6 2bbl. and duels, 904, 7 1/4
1986 Dodge Charger Shelby, 2.2 Turbo I, A525

A common 7 1/4 ratio is 2.76
The factory also used 2.93 and 3.23 on a regular basis.
I find that the 2.93 is about right for all-around driving.
3.23s are great in town but somewhat limiting on the open road.

Go ahead and do the axle bearings and see if that solves the problem. That is the cause of a "rumbling noise" about 90% of the time.

I would not spend a lot of money on rebuilding a 7 1/4
Good used ones can be had for $100 to 200.00 max... even "next to nothing" if you ask around.
DD

Doctor Dodge, that is just what I was thinking earlier today. I'm going to get some axle bearings and take the axles to a friends shop and replace them and put new gear oil in the rear end and see what happens.

_________________
06 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7 HO
Airaid Intake, 50 Series FlowMaster Muffler.
Fastman 68.5 TB
Bed Extender
03 Neon SE
AEM Cold Air Intake, 80 Series FlowMaster Daul Outlet Muffler
1974 Duster w/318 (needs lots of TLC)
1974 Duster W/225

Well we got the wheel bearings replaced and it looks like all is good!! And the Duster is back on the road to kick up a some dust again

_________________
06 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7 HO
Airaid Intake, 50 Series FlowMaster Muffler.
Fastman 68.5 TB
Bed Extender
03 Neon SE
AEM Cold Air Intake, 80 Series FlowMaster Daul Outlet Muffler
1974 Duster w/318 (needs lots of TLC)
1974 Duster W/225

I was also thinking of rebuilding my 7 1/4 ". I have changed both wheel bearings, but it still makes an awful noise. Noise is clearly hearable when accelerating and floating. No noise when coasting.

Rebuild kits look simple. This rear doesn't even have adjustable differential side bearings. Am I right, that the only adjustable thing is the pinion then? Looks like all rebuild kits come with pinion shims and marking compound.

You may ask, why rebuild 7 1/4 ", when you could get 8 1/4 " or 8 3/4 ". Well you could, but bigger rear axles are expensive and rare in this country.

Bot first of all, I pick up "new" rearend and see if that is better unit. If not, I can rebuild one when driving with another.

I appriciate all advice.

The differential side bearings can be adjusted on a 7 1/4. The noise might go away when done properly. You'll need a special tool like this:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

It is not that expensive to ship to europe.

I have heared that there are adjusting screws in 7.25 but never seen them myself. My 7.25 doesn't have them - not even threads for screws. I'll look at salvage axles if they have adjusting screws. That would definately help a lot if you could adjust side bearings.

Should there be any axial play in driveshafts? Mine has almost 1/4" free play. I think the one reason for that is worn tube. Right wheel bearing once exploded in 60 mph and it may have ruined the tube. The new bearing feels a bit loose to the tube. You don't need any tools to pull the driveshaft out, is that normal?

You have looked inside the axle tubes right? The ajusters should be there. That's why you need the four-foot wrench to adjust them.

Some play is normal but 1/4" axial play seems a lot to me. But it is normal that you can pull the shaft out of the tubes by hand with some force. When the axle hasn't been disassembled for ten years or so, you might need a lot of force and special tools.

You could try to use shims behind the bearings, like in a 70's Opel.