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Tublar vs Original Control arms
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34318		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Tublar vs Original Control arms
Hello a few quick items of concern.

I have searched about this info already and just have a few things to ask.


1. Which is lighter - Tublar or stamped steel(stock) UCA's ?

2 I plan to swap Brakes / Spindles / Bolt pattern from (68 A body) Stock 9" drums with the Small upper ball joint to Volare Spindles / Discs / Calipers with big bolt pattern/ Large upper ball joint.

3.It appears this swap is easily done -Last question is about the lower ball joints. What do I need to use to make this swap successful?

Do I just use the Stock 73-up A body Lower Ball Joint in place of the FJM Steering arm?


Thanks for you paitience as I know this topic is beat to death.


Greg
Author:  Joshie225 [ Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tublar vs Original Cotrol arms
Quote:
Do I just use the Stock 73-up A body Lower Ball Joint in place of the FJM Steering arm?
Yes.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Simple enough!

Thanks!

Greg
Author:  GENT [ Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
Greg- Not to hijack your thread,but I sent you a pm a week or so ago,did you receive it?
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Greg- Not to hijack your thread,but I sent you a pm a week or so ago,did you receive it?
Sorry nope not in the inbox..

Re send PM or click on the car in the sig line and find my email on the site. - I wont post it due to spam bots etc.


Greg
Author:  GENT [ Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
email sent :D
Author:  Dart270 [ Mon Mar 16, 2009 4:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
I think the tubular UCA's are maybe 0.5-1 lbs lighter per side. Hardly worth the cash. Only worth it if you want it for convenience or to get more caster/camber, or to avoid the MOOG offset bushings. The stockers only weigh about 4.5 lbs, so not much to save.

I just bought my first set of tubular UCAs on a whim. Haven't installed them yet. I bought them for the caster gain and convenience and nothing else.

Lou
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well Then there's a 73 Dart over at my dad's with some big ball joint UCA's i'll pick up then. i'll spend the money on some 4.5" axles.


Greg
Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Mar 17, 2009 6:33 am ]
Post subject: 
Good choice.

Lou
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Mar 17, 2009 5:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yeah - This also Means the FJM spindles Off that nasty Red Lebaron wagon are no longer available - Sorry. They are going into my "racecar" which spelled backwards is "racecar"


Greg
Author:  wjajr [ Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:52 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Racecar
That would be a Palindrome. Which just happens not to be a palindrome... Emodnilap palindrome emodnilap palindrome, nope. Boy that one flew in under the radar...

Now if we were talking about a 1961...
Author:  slantfin [ Wed Mar 18, 2009 7:10 am ]
Post subject: 
Racecar, a Toyota racecar?
e.g. Dodge
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed Mar 18, 2009 12:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
My Race Car is a 68 Valint Junker - It's a factory Lightweight due to extensive amounts of SW PA Rust :)


Greg
Author:  slantzilla [ Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Greg, if the car you're getting the A-arms off of still has a rear in it grab the brakes. Most of the BBP axles are set up for B or E body brakes and the spacing is different from the bearing out. SBP brakes won't work. :shock:
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed Mar 18, 2009 5:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the Tip Dennis, I also Have a bunch of F body Rear Brake parts I was planning to USe with My BBP axle Purchase, But i'll keep in in mind.

Greg
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