First I am electrically challenged. My son bought this truck on E-Bay from Chicago and it has some issues. I planned to buy it from him so I am trying to get some things working.

1985 D100 pickup with non working wipers.

With switch turned to run position, I checked the fuses and can't see one for the wipers? That's odd. No power to any of the 4 wires at the motor. Remove dash and wiper switch and find power to one blue wire on back of the switch. Trace wires back from wiper motor and find where they go into bulkhead. No power to any of them. While under the dash just looking at things I turned the ignition switch back on to the run position and I hear something running. Yes it is the wiper motor and I haven't fixed anything except for moving some wires around and plugging and unplugging the wiper switch. Now it runs on both settings.

My question is this. Why is there no fuse for the wipers. I am sure there is not because I pulled every fuse and they still ran. So is there a fusible link somewhere on this? It has had some creative splicing done out under the hood and since I am not great with wiring it worries me a bit. It has a lot of extra wires everywhere from the lean burn system which we have replaced.

Thanks for any help.

Rick

The windshield wiper switch has a self-reseting circuit breaker built inside,so does the headlight switch for the headlight circuit only.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Like the headlights, the wipers don't have a fuse - there is a usually circuit breaker inside the switch. That way, if the wipers were to stall (say due to ice), you could free them up and have them run w/o having to hunt for a fuse.

The breaker inside the switch is *not* easy to fix and I'd recommend a replacement switch. If you can't find a replacement switch, I'd reommend shorting out the internal breaker and installing an external, auto-reset breaker in series with the power feed. Be sure you get the right kind of switch for the type of wiper motor - 2sp or 3sp systems are quite different.

In the old switches I've opened up, the spot weld holding the bimetallic arm often was broken and would require a tiny spot welder to fix. Just shorting it out w/o inserting another breaker in series is not a good idea, as it could result in melting and burning if the motor jambs or shorts.