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 Post subject: No spark
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 5:34 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:21 am
Posts: 27
Location: Chicagoland
Car Model:
Hello, I have a slant 6 (1965 Coronet) engine in my newly purchased 1949 Dodge truck. The previous owner bypassed the 6 volt system and is using 12 volts just to get the engine running. I was told the engine ran with the way he wired it, as it is very basic. A toggle switch to turn the ignition on and a push button to engage the starter. My problem is I have no spark. I get battery voltage to the positive side of the coil but no spark when the starter turns the engine over. All ignition parts appear brand new but I still replaced the coil, high tension wire and the condenser. I even brought back the new coil to have it tested and it checked out ok with the resistance test on both the primary and secondary side. I know this is a very basic problem, but for the life of me I can not figure out why no spark. Any advise is appreciated.
Thank you,
Otto


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 6:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7457
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
So you have a point ignition. I didn't see where you checked the points. If you are running points with the full 12 volts to them, they are going to cook pretty fast. During cranking, twelve volts is applied to the points, When the ignition key or in your case, switch/button is released, a ballast resistor should be used to apply a decreased voltage across the points.

Without the resistor, the points will cook in short order.

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:07 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:21 am
Posts: 27
Location: Chicagoland
Car Model:
Im sorry, there is a ballast resistor in line with the toggle. I am getting battery voltage on both sides of the resistor.
Thank you,
Otto


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7457
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
OK. Do you see it dip when the points close?

Good continuity through the points? Grounding of the engine to the chassis? A path for the points to pass current in other words?

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:21 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:21 am
Posts: 27
Location: Chicagoland
Car Model:
I removed the points and cleaned them up, re-gapped and reinstalled. With the points closed, I get 13 volts into ballast resistor and 8 volts out of it. With the points closed I get 8 volts to positive terminal on coil and Zero volts at negative post on coil. The points checked out OK with my tach/dwell meter. I also added a grounding cable between the frame and the engine. Not sure if I still have a bad coil or what the problem is. I know the answer will be real simple and I will kick myself once this is figured out.
Thanks,
Otto


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:31 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:21 am
Posts: 27
Location: Chicagoland
Car Model:
Houston we have ignition. I exchanged the new coil I purchased and that was the problem. I now have spark and I got the engine sort of running. I need to make some adjustments but I am a happy camper. Thanks to all who offered there advise and schooling.
Otto


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