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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 1:27 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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I'm trying to get the A/C and Power Steering off one motor and on to another one that wasn't equipped with either. I never saw the original motor run with the A/C and PS so I'm not even sure if the system is correct.

Anyway, where does the dang A/C even mount? Obviously its right there with the Power Steering but I cannot for the life of me figure out where the two holes on the A/C bracket bolt to?

Now I'm confused with the belts. The harmonic balancer takes two belts. With it on, I can see that one pulley lines up with the alternator and the other lines up with the power steering. Now when I put the water pump pulley on, it goes too far back so one pulley lines up with nothing and the other lines up with the alternator. Do I need a harmonic balancer with 3 grooves or what? Also what connects to what? I never saw everything connected in the first place so I'm kind of confused on why its not lining up correctly.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:29 pm 
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Quote:
Anyway, where does the dang A/C even mount? Obviously its right there with the Power Steering but I cannot for the life of me figure out where the two holes on the A/C bracket bolt to?
Two upper water pump-to-block bolts.
Quote:
Now I'm confused with the belts. The harmonic balancer takes two belts.
The harmonic balancer takes one belt. There are front (P/S) and rear (A/C) sheetmetal auxiliary bolt-on pulleys. Each uses three of the six threaded holes in thee balancer hub.

There's also a 2-groove water pump pulley.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:18 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
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The power steering belt only goes to the harmonic balancer and the steering pump and it is behind the alternator/water pump belt. You would have to take the alternator/water pump belt off to replace the power steering belt. The alternator belt also drives the water pump. So I would guess you do need a third pulley on your damper for the A/C belt and it would be closest to the rad of the three belts.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:29 pm 
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I would guess you do need a third pulley on your damper for the A/C belt and it would be closest to the rad of the three belts.
No, the A/C belt line is rearmost (closest to the engine). The P/S is frontmost.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:31 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Lucky for you, my brother's 74 Duster has unmolested A/C and P/S and it is sitting in my garage with the hood off.

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:D

To install the A/C properly, you will need to pull the harmonic balancer and bolt the A/C pulley to the back of it and then press it back on. Don't forget the braces on the A/C compressor that run to the side of the intake manifold and the driver's side motor mount.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 6:13 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
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Yes, I stand corrected, nicely done Reed. Now I remember it was the alternator belt I had to replace but had to take the steering belt off first.

What sux is that if our buddy ESP47 dosen't have the inner pulley on his damper he has to pull it to add the third pulley

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 6:37 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Yep. I'll be doing that on my brother's van later this year.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:44 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Sorry it took so long to respond, I just got to this today. Thanks for all the advice guys and especially the pics Reed.

I'm having some confusion getting this on. As you can see in the first picture I have two single pulleys, one harmonic balancer with a pulley attached behind it (red) and one single harmonic balancer (turquoise).

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Do I attach the extra red pulley onto the red harmonic balancer with 3 bolts like this? (only one bolt was in when i took the pic)

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I can't think of any other way to do this but the body of the pulley is going outward on mine where in Reed's 3rd picture it looks like it is concaving inward toward the engine. Problem is if I flip mine over to look like Reed's, then theres a half inch or so of space between the pulleys. The way I have it the pulley isn't going to be on the shaft at all, it'll just be held on by the 3 bolts. This seems incorrect to me.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 1:30 pm 
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As I recall some space between the pulleys where the belts contact could be due to the harmonic balancer having slipped/worn. Can't remember now if there was space before or after my harmonic balancer rebuild. I will have to go out and look under the hood to be sure.

The last pic you posted DOES NOT LOOK RIGHT. You want it concaving toward the engine making it slim in the middle. The harmonic balancer and the additional belt pulleys should be resting on each other with no space between the balancer and the addtional pulleys where the 3 bolts hold each to the balancer front and rear.

Perhaps a little blue locktight would be good on those three bolts front and back.

I remember some confusion when I did my timing chain and I was already working with all the parts for PS and A/C.

Perhaps someone who knows more will come along and answer about the space between the pulleys question before I can get to the car.

Good luck!

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.


Last edited by HardCharger on Sun Jan 31, 2010 1:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 1:42 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

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OK, just got back from looking at the damper.

The rear pulley to damper are almost tight. Less than 1/16 inch gap. The front pulley to damper have about a 1/4 inch gap. Same gap all the way around.

I feel pretty confident that this is correct as the damper was rebuilt by Ronald Slater of DamperDudes and its always been a PS/AC car.

_________________
74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:09 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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look at this picture
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/H ... acket4.jpg

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:29 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:33 pm
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Thanks guys, looks like I just have to flip that front pulley around.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:34 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 3:21 am
Posts: 50
Location: Finland
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Hello!

Sorry to borrow your topic. I encountered a problem on trial assembly of my '76 Aspen's 225 with A/C and power steering. The A/C had been removed years ago and I'm installing it back just for dacoration. I found A/C compressor and brackets from '75 Dart (on pic, bolted on 76 Aspen engine). Power steering brackets are likely from non-A/C car. The car came to me equipped with Saginaw pump, don't know if it's the original. Maybe Federal pump was the original because the bracket on the engine was self made from federal bracket to fit GM Saginaw pump - I threw it away years ago.

There is a problem with the A/C idler pulley, which hits the PS bracket (red circle on pic). Pulley not on place because the bearing had to be replaced. There's no way of installing the idler pulley, because PC bracket turns towards the front of car just where the idler pulley should be.

Does anyone have an idea or a picture of what the PS pump bracket should look like, if I want to use this arrangement with Saginaw pump? Not too manu Federal pumps available here, so the Saginaw is the only option.

Thanks for help!

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