ok i have alot of question, im just starting out on this. first off i will have a 1987 dodge dakota well i have one but its my dad's and he's going to give it to me, so i want to put a slant 6 in it. i would like to get around 300-400hp out of it. if that not crazy . i have found piston, rods, and push rod, rocker arm, valves, motor plate, and a valve cover on here for a 225. i'm would like to go with a turbo or a procharger. Which one would be better? where can i get a good crankshaft and a good camshaft?

Here pic of the truck

That truck looks like a good place to start!

The factory cranks are very good so no problems there. There has been tons of discussion on camshafts here. Erson gives good deals if you want new. I like Oregon Cam Grinding since I can get what I want and the motor likes for $70 plus tax.

I prefer a turbo as they make more boost at lower RPM than any centrifugal supercharger. Not much difference on a dedicated drag vehicle, but if you like to drive around much the mid range will be a lot stronger with a turbo.

Gonna go with an automatic? It's easy to swap V8 drums into the /6 904 and get it to handle the HP you expect to make. Plenty of V8 guys use them successfully.

_________________
Joshua

it will have an automatic it will have an 4500 stall in it. i was thinking a turbo also now what size turbo to make 300-400hp if possible.

I would talk to the turbo builder to get the correct size for your application, but you'll probably end up with something like a T04E-60 or a GT-25. Turbonetics makes a very good product.

If money were no object I'd get a tangentially divided exhaust housing and run dual wastegates, but that's really overkill for a drag truck. It would make sense to run a divided housing on a road race vehicle where the added response and low speed boost would be of benefit driving out of slow corners, but since you'll be coming off the line at a relatively high RPM it's probably just added expense.

If money is a big deal, and it usually is, then start looking at used Grand National turbos, Holset turbos off Cummins Dodge trucks and others. The problem with the internal wastegates on the Dodge Holset turbos is the high opening point, but it's not much work to put on a different actuator.

Can you afford EFI or will you be using a carburetor? I have a Holley 390 double pumper that's my go-to carb should I actually get a blow-through turbo setup off the ground. I also have an older H1C Holset turbo without a wastegate, Tubonetics carb hat and a bypass type fuel pressure regulator. Most guys with carbs and a lot of boost are doing water/methanol injection.

Don't forget to search through old posts on camshafts, see the Erson group buy, the Oregon Cam Grinding profiles that are available, the K1 rods, etc. With good pistons and modest RPM prepared stock rods really are fine. The stock valve gear is also fine if the RPM doesn't get out of sight. A stock replacement oil pump with one of Doc's hardened gears and a little relief spring shimming will supply all the oil you need. Make sure you look at the oil system prep too. You'll probably end up o-ringing the cylinders and using a copper head gasket, but Hussey Copper can make you a head gasket. Spend some time and money on the head too. It's probably the best place to spend money as you'll go faster with less boost.

Is the firewall in the truck already cut?

_________________
Joshua

Some of the older holset turbos off of cummins diesels have a divided turbine housing inlet, no dual wastegates though. Wouldn't these also have superior wheel profiles and be more appropriately sized than the buick parts? (At least from a 5.9)

To keep from paying for a one-off header, mount the turbo under the truck with a scavenging electric oil pump. Passive intercooling may keep you from having to run water injection.

Make sure you talk to your cam grinder! I'ts a hard task to balance overlap to make sure your boost isn't pushing your intake charge out the back door and still making sure you have boost building quickly.

Check out the articles and all the points josh mentioned. Good luck and the truck looks cool.

_________________
72 dart acquired 12/08 /6,holley2b, mopar perf intake, mopar perf header, cam, built motor,904 finally re-installed, 8.75....still needs sorting out.
99 dakota 318 5 speed reg cab picked up 9/09; Trans finally fixed! woohoo!

money is the issues but an small turbo like this one isn't an issues http://www.turboneticsinc.com/t3-t4b_turbochargers , it will have a carburetor, it will be a 650 cfm Mighty Demon Blow-Through Carburetor, is that too much? i do not want to go with water/methanol injection thats the last thing i want to do, firewall is not cut out i wont cut it out unless i have to. i will be making a header for it, it will have a hogans manifold on it. will it be best to put nitrous just to spool the turbo up? what the best rpm range for it? i would like to run low 11s high 10s to start with and go for there.
The pistons will behttp://www.campbellenterprises.com/parts.php?t ... spt112h104
The rods will be http://www.campbellenterprises.com/part ... 005behbn6a
The rockers will be http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merc ... ry_Code=MY
The valves will be http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merc ... ry_Code=MY

that sounds like too much stall to me for a motor that should only rev to 6,000 max,and with a turbo you'll drive through it with that high of a stall . and a 650 carb is a little big IMO,390 would be better.

_________________
Nick
86 d150 turbo /6.

what about a 3500 stall and a 390 cfm 4150 HP Carburetor is that a little more reasonable?

You do not need a .104" overbore to meet your goals here and in fact you may be pushing the limit and sacrificing cylinder wall strength. I'd go +.030" or +.045" so you have something left in case you score a cylinder.

I'm not a fan of t3/t4 hybrids on this size engine. If we were building a 2 liter 350hp motor, sure, but with 3.7 liters the T4 exhaust housings are fine and will make more power due to less exhaust restriction.

A 650 CFM carb is too much. The slow air speed kills response and will make tuning tough. You can blow through a 500 CFM Edelbrock carb without much trouble. Graft Thermoquad floats to the existing float arms, put in bigger needles and seats then tune. Or you can use one of the expensive Holley 390 double pumpers and do a bunch of work to it. I have one only because it was used, work was done to make it more suitable for a 225 (still needs more work though), and was priced reasonably. The problem with the NASCAR Holley 390 is that it's set up for a 355 ci engine with a big cam and it works really crappy out of the box on a 225.

Put the money for a Hogan's intake into sheet metal work to set the engine back and just use an Offy or Clifford intake. With a high stall converter you shouldn't need nitrous to come off the line hard, but you may want to reconsider your stance on water/methanol injection.

I would not spend any money with Clifford unless absolutely all other options were exhausted. Their service stinks. Details are all over this message board.

Rocker Arm Service is supposed to have rockers soon, but you don't really need them. Unless you want to spin the engine real fast the money is better spent elsewhere.

Here are your valves, I just saved you $78. You can thank me later. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0198842805

_________________
Joshua

alright so i will rethink my plans and think of some thing way different. About a GT-K 450 Turbocharger

What kind of rpm's will it make, is 5000rpm a good start or alittle higher?

If it's a drag race only truck put a Procharger on it blowing through a Flying Toilet on alcohol and call it a day.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

it will be a drag racing truck about 95% but there 5% that it will go on the street i know that a procharger will be easier but alcohol on the street with an 8 gallon fuel cell is a little hard.

With ARP bolts in stock rods I used to spin my 225 to 5800 RPM pretty regularly. Poor oil control is what killed that motor. I was road racing (not street racing!) and uncovered the oil pickup and spun a rod bearing.

The priorities/necessities as I see them are:

Wideband O2 sensor so you don't burn the thing down while tuning.
A good fuel pump and bypass type regulator, same reason.
Good carb tuning.
Good cylinder head work.
Straight, round cylinders.
Hardened oil pump drive gear.
Increased oil pan capacity.
Appropriate size turbo.
Good intercooler.
Good torque converter.
Windage tray.
Head studs, copper gasket and o-rings if needed.

You can go pretty fast with junk, but reliability will suffer. We've got guys here that ran high 11s with stock pistons.

Unless you spin the engine fast there is a lot of stuff you don't need including roller rockers and aftermarket rods.

_________________
Joshua

who said i was going to street race it, its going to be drag truck i would like to start in the low 11s or high 10s then go to high 9s so that why i want to go ahead and put forged rods, forged piston, racing valves, adj. pushrods, roller rockers, send the head off the be machined, have the crankshaft and the camshaft machined, have water/methanol injection, put an efi kit on it, a good size turbo that is easily tuned to rise the hp level when i want to rise it up. i have the tire to hold the hp thats not a question. did you use a stock camshaft and have it machined on? Is a 3500 stall a good size?