Well, I think the title says it all.

I'm trying to get a handle on what I should do with my tired slant and how much $ and time will be needed.

Any feedback you all can give is much appreciated!

Some general info;
I have a heavy car (1974 Dodge Charger) Special ordered 225/Auto/AC/PS/PB. Not sure if it’s the original engine, but looks to be a 74 block forged crank with later head.
Plan to be a year round daily driver with studded snow tires on half the year.
I would use the car for mostly highway use with 120 mile commute to school 5 days a week. Unsure of rear end ratio but it safe to say it has highway gears in it now.
Freshly rebuilt A904 to stock level with stock stall convertor.
Premium fuel use OK if necessary and fuel mileage is a concern but I am willing to loose MPG to pick up power.
I like a nice exhaust note and don’t mind a cam that is more aggressive than stock just as long as the EZ EFI and power brakes are not compromised.

What I have that I want to keep and use to my advantage:
NOS Distributor P/N 3874714
HEI ignition
Distributor cap Blue Streak CH410X
Rotor Napa Echlin MO3000
NGK ZFR5N gapped to .040
Magnecor 8mm wires
Blaster 3 coil
JP timing chain double roller set (now set 4 degrees advanced)
Water pump Napa 43025
Thermostat STANT Premium 195 OE temp Superstat # 65359
Professionally rebuilt harmonic damper

Things that I have not bought and am somewhat willing to change as recommended/needed:
Radiator Spectra Premium # CU962 factory heavy duty cooling.
Heated intake manifold (I want to be able to drive on the coldest of days which is -20F a time or two a year.)
Offenhauser 4 barrel intake
FAST EZ EFI 4 barrel throttle body electronic fuel injection. While I feel confident that I could junk yard GM 4.3 TBI with MS for much less, I’m really interested in going the EZ EFI route for this build given my time constraints. I burn almost 15 hours a week just commuting to school and I’m taking 14 credit hours when I’m there.
Bouchillon Performance kick-down cable kit
Single 2.25 exhaust. I’m willing to go Dutra Duals with dual 2 inch if the build requires it but either way I prefer simplicity, good cold weather drivability and a nice deep exhaust note.
Block deck to raise comp ratio
Oil pump by Doug Dutra?
ARP bolts as needed

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

HardCharger,

I really like the Erson 254 grind for low end power to move the heavy weight. It is strong right off idle. I think you would like the added torque that 9.5 to 1 compression gives you. That and a careful recurve will wake up your SL6.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hi Ted,

Yeah, that cam and your build come to mind when I think of a good torque build.

Do you think that sending out the head would be worth it given a torque build? I know that the head is the same as the 170 etc, I'm just talking seat of the pants vs. $.

I don't know anyone in south east Idaho to use as a machine shop. Anyone have any recommendations for either here or northern Utah?

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

Yes it would be worth it. At the minimum you will need new valve guides and boots/seals. It is always nice to see how the valves are doing and put an nice 3 angle grind on them and lap them in. I had hardened inserts installed on the exhaust seats. I would also cc the head and shave some off to increase compression. That does allot to help low end torque.

If your asking whether it would be worth it to put the Engine Builder valves in engines running less than 3,000 rpms? Maybe, but not necessary. If several of your valves were bad, then I would replace them with the Engine Builder valves.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hey Charger this sounds like a nice build up. I sent you a PM as I can help you with some of your wish list.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Thanks Frank!

_________________
74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.