I have a chance to pick up a ford 9 inch and a full 4 link, coil over set up for extreamly cheap. Lets just say the I can buy the hole set up for the price of one of the coil overs. I need to find out the gear ratios and the measurements to see if the axle will work for me if not I can ditch the 9in for something else. But I am liking the Idea of the for link setup. My question is how will the four link with rear coil overs and 1inch torrsion bars in the front handle in my 64 2 door valiant. I plan to use the car for minimal roadracing and occasional street use not daily driven but if I had to could be. Has any one done this to an earily abody that is not just a race or drag car.

The people at the new Mr.Norms Garage have a rear coil over link set up for 67-up A's that work very well on the street. I am sure with all the adjustable settings it will work just fine. Good point to bring up when I see them next month and ask about a early A set up.

A 4-link with unequal length upper and lower arms will twist/rotate the housing as the suspension moves up and down. When the body rolls in a turn the suspension links try to twist the housing in opposite directions. This turns the housing into a very large and oddly shaped hollow sway bar. Unless you put a lot of compliance into the links the suspension will be very stiff in roll and will bind up. Ladder bar setups have the same problem. Parallel 4-links do not twist the housing and therefore do not bind. 3-link suspension also doesn't bind.

In case I didn't make myself clear, unequal length 4-link rear suspension with rod ends is not good for street use. Doesn't mean it can't be done, but you will get bind in roll and have compromised handling as a result.

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Joshua

Didn't all Chevy Chevelles and Fox body/SN95 Mustangs use unequal length 4 links?? I know the 'Stang suspension was nicknamed "quadrabind."

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

You are correct Lou. Add full size chevs for 4 decades.

My Roadmaster wagon is a coil unequal 4 link.....and I added bags.

If a 4 link has the capacity to flex and roll it will work fine. The Roadmaster does that with soft rubber bushings and flexible lower arms. A sway bar is not used. When one is added the result seems to be unwanted over steer.

The Roadmaster also uses a self leveling system that keeps the rear suspension in the middle of its travel regardless of load. This is done with air shocks and a lil on board compressor. I subbed in air bags / upgrade shocks.

Designing a working 4 link may be way easier than adapting one.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

thanks for the replies. I figured it should work out ok if it was adjusted in. I do know it is a equal lenght set up still awaiting all the measurements to see if it is worth making the swap. The set up is only tack welded in so I can just grind them down and make it all fit where I need them to. I will get back to you all when I get to take the set up out of my buddys 37 ford.