hello all.
my brother recently picked up a 65 chrysler newport.

single resivour master cylinder - with a small circular cap that screws on with a long screw.

we are arguing about what the fill level is on this master cylinder.

he believes that it can only be filled about half way up - or even with the level of where the threaded rod screws down on to for the cap - wich is about half way down of the full capacity of the resovour holding capability.

I believe you are suposed to fill it up most all the way and it will not affect the threaded screw in post if fluid is filled to submurge it ......
is this correct ?

im not near his car at the moment but will snap a picture of what I mean tomorrow and post up.

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1972 Plymouth Valiant / slant 6 auto

However many of them your trash barrel will hold. (it means…how you say in English…replace it with a dual master as soon as you can.)
Wrong.

Right.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thanks man.

we are going to scrap that single master asap. but money is not at his disposal atm. altho it is probably going to be an on going battle I believe with this - as the reason for this post is due to some kind of leak in the brake fluid system wich caused the master to drain completely of fluid and the car to have absolutely no pedal preasure when he went to back out of the driveway today. he was smart enough to pull the parking brake and stop -

but the single master seems scary at best - the people who sold him the car just replaced the master - and I fear that they did not bench bleed it - or buggered up one of the wheel cylinder bleeders or something of the sort. that or a rubber brake line has finaly exploded maby.

tomorow will be spent figuring out where the leak is coming from.....
he has owned the car for a week now - and its coming up with all sorts of funny issues with it.

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1972 Plymouth Valiant / slant 6 auto

This is a good time to pull all drums and inspect all lines, and wheel cylinders by pealing back the little rubber boots looking for corrosion. Plan on installing all new flexible brake lines if cracked, or the have hardened rubber. Check on the passenger side of the fire wall behind the master cylinder for fluid. This a place that fluid will blow back past the rubbers, and run under the carpet. Chances are good that master the cylinder is an unsafe crappy rebuilt unit that needs to be sent to the ash can.

Breaks need to be fully functional for safe operation of the car on public roads, anything less is unacceptable.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Over the years, I've experienced a number of losses of hydraulic pressure in the brakes when the systems were >>10 years old. Most the cars had a dual system. Only once did the MC hold pressure more than a few seconds on one side when the other lost it - in every other case, the seal between the sides failed and I lost pressure to both sides.

What I'm trying to say is that when a brake system gets very old, it makes sense to rebuild everything at once and not trust a dual system too much.