Heres my problem, I jsut swapped in a 4-speed in my duster and i think i have an OD tranny.
First gear will go about 35 at 4000 rpms with my 2.76 gears and 27" tires. The shift to second feels good. Third and Fourth are switched though! Fourth is next to first right now. All the shift levers are pointing up. Could i have screwed somthing in the shifter when i rebuilt it? The tranny is an iron case unit with a 4.8" input bearing retainer.
The numbers on the tranny are; 6b166402 and pp8335266. The number on the bearing retainer is c13157. I am not 100% sure on the numbers, i may have not been able to see them correctly. Help Me please!

tommyb1515@aol.com

The numbers stamped onto the trans case can be deceiving, at this point it is better to get under the car and count the rotations through the trans.
Do this by removing the clutch inspection cover and mark the flywheel, also mark the driveshaft or yoke comming-out of the rear of the trans.
Put the trans. in 4th and rotate the engine exactly one revolution. If you have a 1 to 1 trans, the driveshaft will also turn one full turn, if it is an OD trans, the driveshaft will turn appx 1.1/4 (.76 engine speed reduction)
If you find that you have an OD trans, it's time to flip the 3-4 shift lever up-side-down to keep the shifter "H" pattern correct.
DD

Thanks for the help Doug, I do in fact have a overdrive tranny. Time to flip the 3-4 shift lever around.
Thanks, Tom B

tommyb1515@aol.com

funny. all the overdrive transmissions were cast aluminum. when i had my od and my "standard" 4 spd apart i ttok some measurements and it appeared that the gearsets would interchange like i had heard. very interesting...

ludite13@cs.com

Yes, Many ratio swaps are possible with the 833 4-speed, in fact, up untill recently, I thought all gear set to different case swaps could be easily done.

Richard on this site showed me otherwise, you can not put the OD "guts" into the early 64-65 flange / B&T case because the main shaft third gear hub (or OD 4th) is to large for the OD cluster gear. (I lost that bet and had to rebuild his gearbox as a result) As they say, live and learn!
All the other swaps work because there is a special OD main shaft you can use with the OD gear clusters. Selecting the correct front ball bearing is the only other trick (a #307 vs. a #308)
DD

You mean I could but the guts from my 65 833 into an aluminum case. I've got the aluminum bell housing already. What's the weight reduction? One could have and aluminum block, bell and transmission. All that's missing in the head. That could take a couple hundred pounds off of the car. I know it's weight down low where it does less damage but it's still weight. Just a thought.

Mike

PS. DD, the hitch is perfect. Did you get my check?

MAndreas@aol.com

Yes and Yes . . .
I have made low first, 1 to 1 all Alm. case 833s.
You need the proper main shaft and the "308" front bearing, retainer and Alm. bellhousing.
I have seen two A-Bodies set up with all the Alm. parts, it does make for a light car. (too bad I have never seen this combo. in a "Feather Duster" or "Dart Lite",that would be cool)

Glad to hear the hitch deal worked-out, that "chain of events" came together well, I love it when everything "clicks")
DD

doug-

when you say use the o.d. shaft, you mean the "floater" right? and thet is needed because of the legnth, not a different diameter, correct?
i recall seeing a D.C. aluminum "race case" once and it had steel (or some kind of "hard" metal) bushings installed. i think that was to prevent the shaft from beating its way thru the case. how tough is the od case? anybody report any failures? i know they have been behind small blocks, but those were '70s wheezers thay a hot slant could make short work of.

-james

ludite13@cs.com

No, The main shaft where the OD (4th) gear installs has a much small hub diameter, this is because the OD gear is small, If you opened-up the ID of an O.Drive gear to the 1 to 1 trans main shaft hub size, you would be left holding a bunch of loose gear teeth! Everything had to be made smaller in order to get tooth counts needed for the overdrive ratio. Another related difference is that the OD trans front syncrow slider hub has a smaller spline, to allow the smaller OD gear to pass over it.
(I'm upset. . . I can not locate my PIC of this, I took the shots, just can't find them at the moment)
:
: i recall seeing a D.C. aluminum "race
: case" once and it had steel (or some
: kind of "hard" metal) bushings
: installed. i think that was to prevent the
: shaft from beating its way thru the case.
: how tough is the od case? anybody report any
: failures? i know they have been behind small
: blocks, but those were '70s wheezers thay a
: hot slant could make short work of.

The Slants don't usually "pound-out" the counter shaft mounting area. The steel sleeve is the fix once these get loose.
I will keep looking for my main shaft photo but the bottomline is that you need to put OD gears onto an OD mainshaft. There was never an OD (small front spline & hub) mainshaft made for the flange type 833 so that's why this swap can not be done into that case. (mainshaft and tailshaft difference for the small rear ball bearing and flange yoke)
DD