Rear end to engine.

Williams has one that couples to the 9" Ford. 2.5" DOM. $315

Anybody already built something of this sort? Ideas?

The main caps on the slant are bigger than the 2.5" dimension. Thoughts on fitting to something like this?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Far out. Will that bolt to an 8" 3rd member too?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou the bolt pattern and spread is different. Looks like it would be easy to build though.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Thanks, Frank. I've never played with a 9".

Maybe CJ is building a dragster??

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Maybe CJ is building a dragster??



This could be built useng the metal shim behind the front housing as a pattern for the flange.


Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yep. That's what I'm building.

Hope everyone is patient. Could take a while!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yep. That's what I'm building.

Hope everyone is patient. Could take a while!

CJ

You might add it will be rear engine 225 with 904 ahead of the 9 inch ford rearend

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Didn't you have a shortend 727 you were going to use or am i getting old . Will it make it longer the thing looked pretty long when you got it!

Wish i could fit the slicks on my duster!

TF

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Even in moderation i am excessive!

Hey CJ,
An alignment fixture cane be built by welding a DOM tube to a Ford 9" Pinion support. Here is an active auction for a pinion support.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-9-P ... 5196ca4c9d

2-1/5" DON 1/4" wall Tube x 36" long

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-1-2-od-x-1-4-wall ... 1e594681a2

Set the pinion support up in a lathe and bore it 2.450 Dia. Chuck the tubing up and clean up the outside of one end to 2.450 Dia. outside and clean up the ID until you have 4" of length clean. Press the tube into the pinion support and tack weld in 3 spots. Let the assy cool and remount it into the lath chucking on the cleaned up ID. The other end of the tube needs to be in a steady rest. Adjust the steady rest until the mounting flance face of the pinion support runs true. Now you can machine the far end of the tube to the dia. of the main bearing housing on the block.
Materials are about 100 bucks and you can probably trade for the machine work.
Good luck.
Don

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64 A100 PU 170 /6
Salisbury, NC

Aren't the mains 2-3/4" on the slant, standard bearings?

That's exactly what Fopar and I decided was the best method. Mount it to the shaft with a couple old std bearings on journal 1 and 4.

I've got a piece of 2-3/4", quarter wall DOM, 60" long being set up by my favorite machinist right now. My lathe isn't big enough to deal with it. It's got two pieces of 1/2" plate that will be trued to the tube and welded in place. One piece of plate inserts into the 9" rear, and is turned to the size of the opening, the other is drilled to the pattern on the rear end for the pinion housing.

Andy, my machinist doesn't think a slant six block will cause any deflection of the tube at all.

All said, it's going to run almost $300, so the rest of you Killer Bees better get off your keisters and need to borrow it!

We've measured several times. With the A904 shorty setup I'm getting from somebody here, who's intitials are Frank Brent, I won't have to stretch the chassis.

Looks like there are some further mods to the chassis prior to certification. There are no diagonals between the lower frame tubes under the driver. I'll have to have at least two diagonals to protect the driver's area. I'm not sure how the pan will effect that. This rail has a steel pan from the front axle to behind the cage. The pan is welded to the bottom rails. Some of the welds are MIG, so it's mild steel.

Joined NHRA this week. Now to get the chassis ready, then up to the inspector. Until that's done, I won't be mounting anything. When the chassis is good, I'll start plugging stuff together. I need to find a transbrake/manual valve body and an appropriate converter yet. Some of the guts from the Jeep A904 will be used. It's got the V8 gear set.

I'm starting to search for an appropriate cam for the build. The head is now at the machine shop for inspection. We're looking at spray welding the head to build a quench area.
This will likely be a K-1/Wiseco build. Seems I sold my Hi Flow AM to DusterIdiot. So, off to the store I go.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Picked the fixture up on the way home.

Total damages, materials and so forth, $275. Not bad for what I had done.

We're going to fix some things we haven't had a chance to address at work tomorrow, so I won't get much done tomorrow, but I should have the bare block mounted on it Sunday. Initial set up!

I'll get some photos of it up here Sunday.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing