Hey guys this is my first mopar, and I'm sending all the parts to the machine shop to get checked, and what ever needs to be done will be. I've built a few sbc's and tons of aircooled vw motors. This will be a very mild motor, or otherwise stock, I might switch to super six set up, still unsure.
My question is if there is a better cam grind then stock for street drivability, performance and mpg, let me know. Also the whole reason I tore this thing apart is the timing chain skipped and is insanely sloppy. What's a real good timing set up I can get? And how bout pistons? Any good prices on a lighter stronger hyperutectic or forged?

Thank you

Also can I easily convert to hydraulic cam and liters, or does that require special machining and different rockers, please get back to me soon as I'm going to dropping this stuff off tomorrow, thanks again guys

If all you are looking for is a good solid street motor, I would convert to a stock hydraulic camshaft setup and spend your time and money on porting the head and decking the block for increased compression.

There are several very informative threads on this site about camshaft choice, and lots of info about converting to hydraulic lifters.

For a street motor, and even a moderately built motor, stock timing components and pistons are fine.

Not a fan of hydraulic conversions. It can be done, and there are those that like that sort of thing. I'm not one of them. It's more involved than most people realize. Hydraulic slants oil down through the pushrods to the lifters. That means you'll be replacing all that stuff. You'll be replacing a bunch of parts to make your car's performance lesser. There just aren't that many Hydraulic cam options available that are worth a toot.
Take a look in the stickies above and get ahold of Charlie. Might still be time to get in on the Roller Timing set buy.
Stay with the mechanical cam and take a look at the Erson grinds. RV15M is one I like that's pretty mild. M is for mechanical.
Have the engine measured by your shop, and cut the head to bring the compression up to 9:1 or so. It'll work a lot better.

You need to do some research before jumping to any specific build though. Search, hit the FAQ, and read the Articles. There is a lot you can do that will make your car a lot more fun, and still keep things street friendly.

The chain in the Hooptie was hitting the cover when I bought the car, I replaced the timing set, and the rest of the motor was good for a season of racing.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I was told to get the jp/ rollmaster

Another thing to remember when picking a cam is to have a realistic understanding of the RPM range your motor will be operating in and what kind of driving you will do. Most street driven slant sixes rarely see over 3000 RPM, so a cam that doesn't make power until 2500+ RPM really isn't a good choice for a street motor. If you are interested in converting to hydraulic lifters and are building a street motor, THIS THREAD has some in depth discussion and comparison of various custom hydraulic camshaft profiles.

Switching from a solid lifter camshaft and valvetrain to a hydraulic lifter camshaft and valvetrain requires changing the cam, the lifters, the pushrods, and rocker arms. There is very good info about switching from mechanical lifters to hydraulic in THIS THREAD, and good info about hydraulic motors in general HERE.

Bear in mind that hydraulic motors must use the complete hydraulic valvetrain for the lifters to get oil. Here is a scan from a 1984 Dodge factory service manual describing the oiling system in a hydraulic lifter slant six:

the engine is getting there, ive been busy with work, and remodling my grandmothers home at the same time. on top of getting ready to move.

alot of you guys have helped me go through some things, and i greatly appreciate it all. i still need exhaust manifolds, weather or not i go with stock or dutra, is all upto which one i could find first thats not BROKE!

heres a list of parts ive done with this thing.

Sealed Power .060 over pistons/rings
Head milled just enough to make it flat
Valve job including exhaust seats installed
Rods rebuilt
Cloyes double roller timing set (thanks to charlie and his group buy)
Oregon Cams #125 set at about 2 1/2 degrees advanced CAM CARD
Melling oil pump with Docs hardend gear
Gates water pump
Powerbond Damper
Felpro gasket set
im sure theres more im missing...

Looks great...
You need to flip-over the passenger side engine mount bracket, it's on up-side-down in your photo.
DD

it is isn't it..... WHOOOPS thanks friend!

Need pics of how brackets mount and of all around the engine!
Need desperately!
Thanks,
Roger

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I have a '72 Duster with a 225 in it and an auto tranny. It has 60k on it , but has been in the weather for a lot of years.

well shes done, back on the road, registered and insured.
i would like to thank everyone who has helped with all the questions through out the year that i have asked. this has taken me a good 16 months to complete on and off, with work, moving, and house renovations i have been doing. i really appreciate the help. and looking forward for more because... well the car isnt perfect. yet

Sealed Power .060 over pistons/rings
Head milled just enough to make it flat
7.75 compression ratio
Valve job including exhaust seats installed
Rods rebuilt
Cloyes double roller timing set (thanks to charlie and his group buy)
Oregon Cams #125 set at about 2 1/2 degrees advanced CAM CARD
Melling oil pump with Docs hardend gear
Gates water pump
Powerbond Damper
Felpro gasket set
Remflex manifold gaskets
Manifolds Blanchard ground



here she is

great looking car,, motor looks sharp to

how does it run?

Thanks. She runs great besides for a flat spot I cant seem to get rid of. And oil leak from the drool tubes. Gotta mess with those