I have been less than half heartedly putzing with a KH brake rebuild. I can’t seam to get on to this project with any enthusiasm for more than ten seconds. As a result of this industrial strength dose of procrastination, I have been letting a few problems hang.

Rebuilt calipers have been installed, and torqued properly. On passengers side, brake pads slid into position nicely allowing the rotor to turn without any drag, not the case for the driver’s side. Inboard pad fit nicely with out persuasion, outboard side went in snug, causing some drag on rotor when turned.

Do I need to remove the pads & caliper, and dress the bolt eyes of the caliper a few thousands to better center the unit? Or, just drive it, and wear in the dragging pad?

Also I have had a less than swell time getting my flares to seal up. Mostly the ones that lack clearance for good wrench movement such as the front circuit line from MC to top of ‘distribution block / pressure switch’ on frame rail. Exhaust plumbing is a bit tight in that spot. That block has not remained rock solid due to its large sheet metal screw loosing its bite, and is contributing to nut tightening difficulties as well.

Would a through bolt for the distribution block, replacing the sheet metal screw, be a reasonable fix, or should I just get the last nut to stop dripping some how, and let the block hang as it is?

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I would definitely make sure it is mounted properly. If not, it may vibrate during driving and cause more leaks down the line. A through bolt to fasten it should be fine in place of the sheet metal screw.

~RDE~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

[quote]I would definitely make sure it is mounted properly. If not, it may vibrate during driving and cause more leaks down the line. A through bolt to fasten it should be fine in place of the sheet metal screw. [/quote]


THOR, I through bolted the damn thing with a 3â€￾ x 5/16 threaded fastener. That stabilized the whole shoot’en match enabling tighter fittings. Also I had two oozing fittings helping the project along in addition to the top connection to the distribution block: one at the hard line / soft line connection behind disk which is a real handy spot to see, and get a wrenches onto; and one of the cross-over lines on the caliper, cake.

Several times I was close to wanting your B.F. thundering hammer for either beating the plumbing into submission, or my scull to just put my self out of this brake job misery… I can’t decide which option would have satisfied the ongoing frustration more.

Now the dragging out-board pad portion of the first post; leave it be, as not much force is needed to rotate the rotor, or sand the pad or dress the mounting eyes?

I’m thinking let it run-in with a few hard stops, and check for excessive heat build-up in the brake for the first few miles of driving. What say yous people?

Cripe, cuzin Vinnie has taken over… yous! At least he is off that Pontiac site now.

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

In general, anytime you perform brake system work you drive the vehicle once it is deemed "done" and do some hard braking to dress the brake pads/shoes to the rotor/drum.

There are some who likely will disagree, but that has been standard practice for me since way back.

If you are sure its not going to fall apart, go ahead and take it for a short, brake pedal filled drive. One thing I do is ride the brake slightly to get everything aligned for sure. If the caliper looks as though it is mounted squarely, torqued correctly, and complete, a few good stops and a little brake ride may loosen it up.

They aren't designed to have frictional contact necessarily as drums do, but there also should not be a huge gap between the pad and the rotor. A slight drag is normal.

I can send you a video of me annihilating something the good 'ol hammer if that would make you feel better, but trust me, the two targets you don't want to hit include you, and your car... been there done that....

~RDE~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

THOR:
I can send you a video of me annihilating something the good 'ol hammer if that would make you feel better, but trust me, the two targets you don't want to hit include you, and your car... been there done that....


Yeah me too. My favorite weapon of self mutilation is the 22 oz. waffle framing hammer… Favorite body part to beat the crap out of is left hand digits… I have welcomed the pneumatic nail gun into my life!

After the new steering gear arrives & is installed I give all this newly installed stuff its sea trials. With better mount of front anti sway bar, newly rebuilt steering box, and front brakes with all eight pistons moving, I’m expecting a whole new driving experience.

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Hey Bill East Wing- Itis

East Wing 22 OZ Waffle Hammer was hard on me as well.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Nice! Look forward to seeing how it goes!

~RDE~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing