OK...on the end of my cam is Clifford 276. I need to see what other numbers might be there since I just noticed on their website that they
list a 276 mechanical cam and a 280, both with the 95-1182 part number.
Plus they list different lash settings.
276 .024/.026 280 .016/.018
WTF..LOL? Could they be more vague and confusing?

I realized quickly that I was VERY rusty on cam-checking but I am starting to get my my brain wrapped around it again.

So far-
IN / EX
Dur @.050: 235/237
Lobe lift: .297"/.295" Taken off the pushrods.
measured @ .050 lift-
IN OPN@ 18 BTDC
IN CLS@ 37 ABDC
Intake C/L as installed ("Straight UP" dot to dot) 98.5
Cam is ground +4 advanced per Clifford. (All the info I could get from them)

Do these look like realistic numbers?

I will do more checking tonight.

They look realistic. .024 intake, .026 Exhaust to match your numbers.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

my question why the bigger gap on the 276 over stock setting?????it doesn't make any sence to me to put bigger lift in and then increase valve gap/????WHY???? please explain
sorry for the hyjack
keep on roddin'
Indian

This is usually based on the cam base circle along with how radical the lobe ramp is cut...(and a bit from lifter diameter or type)

-D.Idiot

Closing the lash up is a cheap way to get a little more duration.

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OK, here are my numbers after much gnashing of teeth.

Intake
Opens 10.5 BTDC
Closes 45.0 ABDC
Max lobe lift .298" @ 99 (.298 X 1.5 = .447)

Exhaust
Opens 47 BBDC
Closes 8 ATDC
Max lob lift .295 @ 111 (.295 X 1.5 = .443)

LSA 105


Do these look like reasonable findings?

Based on the above numbers I will need a 36cc chamber to achieve approx. 10:1 static compression ratio with an 8.3:1 dynamic compression ratio.
I plan to use pump gas.

Can I achieve this small chamber size and not have to disassemble my short block for decking?

Using a cut of .066/cc I would need to mill the head .158" assuming a starting chamber size of 60cc. Is it OK to flat cut the head that much?

You can cut the head that much. I have a head that is 36 cc with Ford 1.78/ 1.50 valves in it. The only draw back is that the head cant be used for any other purpose. If you move it to another block and that block has been decked or you want boost, tough luck.
I now cut most of the millage off the block and just clean up the head real good. Were it my engine I would take the .100 off the deck and .058 off the head.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Looks like a great cam. Personally, I would probably leave the centerline right where it is. Have you measured your piston-deck ht at TDC yet? 30cc's sounds a bit small for 10:1.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou....my pistons average .183" down in the hole. Using the DCR caluculator 36cc is what I came up with.

Bite the bullet. Deck it. :shrug:

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I would deck the block. Its a cheap way to keep your valves further from the deck. Its easier to sweep the chamber than to notch the block when adding bigger valves.

milling 160 got me 9.25:1

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I guess I'm more of a head mill guy if the short block is all together and does not need to be disassembled. I have done 2 heads with 0.100" on the manifold side and 0.200" on the plug side and both were around 34 cc's with SB Chev valves. This closes up the chamber quite a bit on an early head, and probably would on a '67-up head too.

IMHO, it doesn't matter much which way you do it.

My engines run this way with 0.170" deck ht. have made 240-260 crank HP (mid 14s in the 1/4) and pulled mid 20s mileage on the hwy in my '64 Dart (TBI and 5spd).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988