I'm turboing my Duster finally and I want to have it done for the June race in Kearney.

The combo is:
Stock '74 motor internally, with about 55k on a rebuild
Buick GN turbo, stock, internal wastegate (Garrett), intercooled
Throttle body EFI
Offy Manifold
Dual Dutra Duals
Megasquirt II V 3.0 board controlling fuel and spark


I spent today fabbing an intercooler setup - I think it came out pretty good.










Now for the intercooler piping. Big thing will be the exhaust of course...

-George

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It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!

So you're going with the stock pistons? How much boost do you plan to run?
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Hairy Pussy Cam

sweet may have to get bigger intercooler for my duster now after seeing that monster

Kev

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I plan to run 14-17 PSI. We will see how well the stockers hold up. I think they will be ok. I do want to go to a lighter long rod setup later on.


That intercooler is about the same size as the one on my kid's Neon, and his intake temp runs about 120* under boost (17 PSI) so it should be working well... or maybe I'm compensating for something

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It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!

Ya my intercooler looks just like that one but i'd say a couple inches short on the width, your mount is like deja vu i made a bracket for it just like that after i cut off the guts below the hood latch i squeezed mine in there without having to cut my bumper and the hood still works same as stock like yours too. Cool man 14-17psi ought do some work on the pavement i'm running the lowest setting at the moment 7-8psi getting my bugs worked out doesn't even seem with tuning problems, broke the trans a couple weeks ago now a nasty oil leak the list of things to fix seems to get longer as i just want to have some fun with it.

Kev

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Better git goin'! Good to see you getting it together.

With luck, we'll have at least 3 turbo cars at Kearney. I plan to fly up to MN several days before Kearney and complete installation and tuning of the '68 Dart turbo project. All parts are in place now and bolted up.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

When is the Kearny race?

We're makin' progress, but are O-L-D, so we are S-L-O-W....

Probably gonna be July or August before this thing fires... if, then...

Bill 'n' Freddie...

Major milestone last night... it's now running on my new 3.0 Megasquirt II running fuel and spark. I locked the distributor weights down, and spent literally hours making an adjustable rod to set the timing plate that is usually moved by the vacuum advance, now removed.

So now I can adjust the timing at the distributor with the rod, and hopefully not have to turn the distributor itself, which would introduce phase problems like Sam may have been having.

I got extremely lucky on my settings for the distributor. I just tried to set everything in the middle - vacuum plate, distributor arm on the block, and line up the rotor best I could.

I had no tach signal at first. I'm using the VR pickup out of the distributor. I had to adjust the two pots on the MS board, and voila, tach. It lit right off!

I was amazed that it ran, idled, and it may be my imagination, but it had a wicked sounding snarl. It for sure had very good throttle response. I'll have to get the timing light on it and get everything adjusted to see where it's at. But I was happy to have it run.

The turbo is not mounted on it yet... soon I hope.

How is everybody doing the oil return line to the pan? I really don't want to drop that pan...

Lou, can't wait to see that turbo installation on the Dart

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It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!

Kev, on the intercooler mount -

I looked at your pictures to formulate my plan for this - I knew I had to eliminate the vertical brace to the hood latch. It worked out that I could integrate it into the top bar of the intercooler mount. The remaining hood latch piece is welded to that top bar. The bar is actually doubled on the back side past the two intercooler mounting bolts on each side. I did this because that bar is carrying a lot of the hood latch loads now.

The bottom mount is a simple angle that is welded to the bottom of the core support and drilled for the mounting bolts. Simple yet effective. No chafing of the aluminum anywhere and it is all pretty solid.

-G

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It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!

Ya my bracket stiffend the whole front wall alot actually it surprised me, i didn't do anything with the latch arm since i welded the bottom of the latch directly to my bar that goes across on each side of the rad hole that doubles as the intercooler mount, i didnt both even using the bottom mounts on the intercooler it's very solid without out them.
Megasquirt huh thats cool maybe that will making tuning nice you have the software to do that?
Do you have a meth kit planned for it?
Kev

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I'm piecing FI together as well.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Yep, I'm using Tuner Studio these days to tune. It's pretty nice. I wish I had a manifold plumbed with injector bungs so I could do multiport. I think Lou is right, a dry manifold is best. My Offy is killing me running raw fuel in the back cylinders with the throttle body.

I plan to wait and see on the meth kit. If it appears that I need one then I'll use one. I have a nifty electronic boost controller I lifted from my kid's Neon that can turn things on based on boost. That would be handy to turn on the meth kit. Or say a 50 shot of nitrous prior to 5 PSI of boost... but I digress. I'm hoping that big intercooler and a 11.5:1 AF ratio will keep it cool enough.

Shaker, expand on that EFI system you're doing.

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It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!

Gun pilot, use the rod you made for the vacuum advance to adjust for rotor phasing with the cap. If the dist. pick-up and cap are solidly mounted to the dist. body, rotating the whole dist. will affect base timing but not rotor phasing.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

I have a set of Siemens Deka flow matched low impedence 83 lb/hr injectors. The Aussie intake is being drilled for injectors. A fuel rail is being made at the same time.

I'm planning on using a MS II with a 3.57 board.

That is as far as I am right now.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Ok, let me see if I can get my head around this. I was going to do just the opposite. If I turn the distributor, the rotor remains stationary inside. So the post in the cap moves either toward, or away from the rotor tip. Isn't this affecting the phasing?

Whereas, if I adjust the pickup plate with my adjusting rod, just the pickup moves in relation to the reluctor, adjusting timing. The rotor does not move in relation to the post in the cap.

What am I missing?

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It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!