I thought it's about time I started a Slixer's Gallery thread for my pickup.
This is my 1975 D100 soon after I bought it, on Black Friday, 2008. Until that day I had zero experience with Slant 6s. Not long after that I found this forum and that all changed. I was on here lurking for a while before finally signing up in 2011.
I plan to post additional pics and updates on the mods and repairs done.
Thanks for checking it out.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

One more for now. Here's the \6 from Jan 2009.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Over the next few years the D100 was my daily driver.During this time I got to experience many adventures of driving and repairing a vintage Dodge pickup.
My son also used it as his daily driver until Jan 2013 when he got a new ride and the Dodge got parked. It sat idle for almost four years. during that time my wife and I moved about 80 miles away which added to the inattention.
Finally, January 2017 I jumped back in and got it running. this is when the bad gas lesson was learned. We got this fixed with new push rods, a clean gas tank and a rebuilt carb.
Not long after that the D100 was back at home with me where I could spend more time on it.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Yikes! That's a lot of bent push rods! Nice looking truck though. I have an '84 D100 and had an '86 W150, and an '83 van, all slant powered. Plenty of power on flat land or down hill.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Thanks coconuteater64. I look forward to the day I can list off all my slant powered vehicles in addition to my D100!
Last year I began searching and found a really nice Super Six manifold, and a very good rebuild candidate Motorcraft 2150 carburetor (1.08") both from a nearby salvage yard. I sent my distributor off to DusterIdiot for a re-curve, rebuilt the carburetor and began assembling pieces to upgrade to the two barrel set up. I realized I needed a new timing chain due to the 12 degrees of slop in the distributor/crankshaft connection. I verified the damper was in good shape by rotating the crank both directions against a piston stop and getting the same measurement on both before and after TDC. After reading posts on here about sealing up the oil pan and rear seal, I decided the best way for me was to complete that with the engine out of the truck. One weekend, my son and I pulled the engine, swapped the timing gears and chain, installed new pan gasket and rear seal, upgrade to Super Six with the Motorcraft carburetor, universal throttle and kick-down cables. That was a year ago. Man, how time flies.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Well, this weekend I set out to finally upgrade to HEI. I've been accumulating all the necessary pieces for quite a while. I don't know what took so long, just never took the time to actually do it. I got a GM coil/HEI bracket off a big block powered Suburban, used the heat sink and modified the coil mount for the Ford E-core coil. These were mounted on the right side inner fender. I went with the relay for getting full voltage right off the starter relay. Just for irony's sake, I mounted the relay in the spot formerly occupied by the ballast resistor. I'm really happy with the finished product. I still have a little tuning to do, but the difference is worth the effort, in my opinion.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

I learned something interesting yesterday, maybe passing it on will enlighten others.
Regular visitors to the board may remember me relocating the alternator on my pickup's slant a few weeks ago. If not, here's a link: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... 35#p471860
After the relocate, I removed the stock alt bracket and most may know that the stock alternator bracket includes provision to mount the ignition coil as well. I fabbed up a simple bar that mounts in the alt bracket holes on the block and mounted the the coil to this bar. A couple weeks after that I converted the ignition to HEI which meant getting away from the coil mount that was fabbed during the alt relocate. To further clean up the appearance of the front of the engine I removed the unused bar and ran with the holes wide open. I used the Dodge to commute to work on Friday last week (~60 miles round trip, 70 mph top speed). Sunday morning, I opened the hood and found quite a mess. evidently, those alternator bracket mounting holes penetrate the block into oil return area. After clean-up, I installed the original mounting bolts for the alternator bracket. Checking the dipstick, there's no noticeable difference in the oil level. All is well.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Interesting and good to know. Thanks.

Your truck is looking good!!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Thanks Rob, that means a lot. My truck wouldn't be in the shape it is now without you and everybody else that make this a great place.
This being my 100th post on the forum, I thought I should post pic to celebrate! Thanks again to everybody for sharing your knowledge and experience.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

I posted the install of my parallel two barrel intake on the "What did you get done to your slant today?" thread. (http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 03#p470103) This post covers the fabrication.
After reading about and seeing a few of the parallel two barrel manifolds, I figured "what the heck?" and decided to give it a try.
I already had a single barrel intake from a salvage yard and began grinding away at the carb mounting pad. Once that was out of the way, I marked, drilled, and punched the top for the two barrel openings. I had a friend cut me a new pad out of 1/2" steel and a local shop handled the welding. The rest of the engine is in it's 40 year old natural state, so I left the manifold natural as well. I'm running this manifold with a Motorcraft 2150 (287 cfm) carburetor and Summit throttle and kick down cables on a homemade carb-mounted bracket.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

I drove the pickup to work last Friday. Sometime during the day I noticed that my right tail light was missing. Not sure what happened, no signs of damage, it's like the screws just fell out.
Luckily, the Napa store along my route had some of that temp repair tape. It was enough to get me home. Careful observers will notice this is before I borrowed a screw from the left side light to secure the lamp and complete the ground for proper operation. RockAuto had some nice replacement tail light lenses that arrived in just a few days and since I had some time off this week, I took the opportunity to refurbish the reflectors according to instructions in this post:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... lit=chrome
The reflectors were a little crusty before I got started but they cleaned up pretty good. Just don't look too close at the "after" pic.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Nice work. Good to know you can still find parts like that too.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Thanks Rob. It's surprising what you can find online these days. As you probably know, there still doesn't seem to be as much availability as for the Fords and Chevys, but it is getting better.
This week I also got around to doing the exhaust system upgrade that had been on the back burner for several months.
It started with a 2.25" headpipe stub that came with a Super Six manifold set that I picked up last year. I watched some YouTube videos on how to do pie cuts and then went to town with my gasless MIG welder. Thats a Smithy 2.25" glass pack that was recommended by Coconuteater64 and others. The sound is nice and mellow, with a little growl when I stand on it. Best of all, it *probably* won't disturb the neighbors. HAHA! The header wrap covers the pipe until it gets past the engine compartment. This serves two purposes; helps keeps the engine compartment temps down and conceals some ugly, yet functional welds! And as you can see by the side-by-side comparison, this simple system counts for a considerable reduction in weight, too.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Vroom!!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Love seeing your progress!

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.