I have a 65 Dart with the ORIGINAL VR and original alternator. The ignition is now mopar electronic. Orig. S6 engine, auto trans.
I'm trying to upgrade some things, to make it more "safe" and "reliable" for longer trips.

A) I'm upgrading the lighting to relays to bypass the dash switch -see other post on lighting. I plan on running moderate power lighting (common available sealed Halogen beams) (parts from SSDan!)

Q1: if using STOCK wiring sockets, what is the max. wattage buld that I can use with the stock wires? The reason to bypass the dash switch is just for "safety" reasons.


B) Ignition is now mopar electronic (S6 engine)

Q2: should I change the original VR? to what unit? I'm leary on chinese made ones.


C) The car is also getting a 400Watt Amp to drive a subwoofer (the 'kids" are making me do this....the talk radior I listen to doesn't need a sub!) I'm worried about high current draw off the battery. I MIGHT have to replace my stock 65 Alt. with a higher output one!!!!

Q3: I saw Dans post about the quickie Ammeter bypass. If I understand this correctly; I disconnect the B+ wiring at the Alt., and run 2 #10s directly to the pos. post of the battery. This unloads the ammeter on the dash???????? I guess I can put in a underdash voltmeter just to keep and eye on things. Will this work properly if I put in a 1970s 70amp alternator without melting the ampgage in the cluster???

Q4: I asked this is another thread: but if doing #3, how does the VR still function???

thanks. Dan: the man with the hard head....I await your sootheeness!!!!
(only kidding Dan; I really appreciate your insight)
Mike

Not sure why you put "safe" and "reliable" in quotes. They're real words that really mean safety and reliability.
Not according to your other thread you're not; it sounds like you're splicing relays into the inadequate factory wiring. I'm not sure what I'd call that, but it would be closer to "half-baked" than to "upgraded".
The only sealed beams worth buying are the GE Night Hawk H6024NH units, which you can get for about $20 from amazon.com . They're still cheap sealed beams, but at least they have decent beam focus to them, not like the garbage from Wagner, Sylvania, and the others.
I already answered this not-particularly-thoughtful question in your other thread.

Is it faulty or very old? If so, put in a new one. Standard #VR-128 or Echlin VR-1001.

Oh, cut me some slack, Jack! You're doing a halfazz job on your lighting upgrade (or "upgrade") because even though you're holding in your hands all the parts you need to do the job correctly, you can't be bothered…but you're going to futz around with an obnoxious stereo system to annoy everyone around you? Uh…No. Let's be a grownup, please. You said you're interested in upgrading the safety and reliability of the car? Read this post and get your credit card out. You've got a lot of items on your shopping list before you get to "obnoxious loud stereo".
Yup. Thoughtless plans get under my skin.
Not so's you'd notice.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thanks Dan. every once in a while I need to be taken to the woodshed for some motivation. I'll get my lazy butt in gear and do the HL mod correctly.

the battery / alt. jump will suffice for now. The car will be disassembled in Sept,