Got the '67 Dart 270 with the 225 towed to the house, and in starting to work on it yesterday found out there is a big exhaust manifold crack in it. The car actually runs pretty good - after buying a battery and fuel pump, it runs well, but it is loud because of the exhaust manifold crack.

I did a search and saw some tips, but I have never worked on taking off an exhaust manifold that has been in place for 44 years. I saw this link for a new manifold:

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustManifol ... 083/294988

Don't know anything about the company, but if I have to get one, I guess I'd rather have a brand new one like this.

Any tips, help and insight would be SO appreciated. I am definitely intimidated about how hard this job might be - I've heard horror stories of manifolds not lining up, not coming off, breaking studs, etc.

If there was any kind of short term fix I'd even be up for that (like making some kind of a muffler bandage work on it).

On the positive side, though, it runs strong after cranking it for the first time in 4 years!

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Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13

Current: 1967 Dodge Dart 270/225

Previous: 1964 Dodge Dart, 1966 Plymouth Valiant Signet, '64 Valiant Convertible

That's a good price for the manifold and fasteners.
Dump the inter-manifold gasket that comes with the set and get the good one from Frank Rasso.

Expect the rearmost exhaust manifold stud to break, or with luck, the stud will unscrew out of the head and you can just replace it.

Read the manifold installation articles on the home page more than once. Then read it again while you do the install.

Good luck!

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Super Six Conversion Stromberg

The manifold you found is an aftermarket one from China. Quality is okeh, not up to original-equipment standards but tolerable if you cannot find a genuine Chrysler new one (they go by fairly frequently on eBay, though I don't see one there right now). Don't worry about the year range listed; the only practical difference is that when installing a '73-up type exhaust manifold (the only kind available new/aftermarket), you'll need to install a different choke thermostat to match. This can best be handled with an Electric choke kit. See here for manifold installation info, here for hardware info, and it is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If you were thinking about upgrading the exhaust at some point, this would be the time. There is more power in there with greater exhaust flow. The stock exhaust is pretty restrictive.
Depending on what the car will be used for, there are two flavors of Dutra Duals, and headers available.
.
2¢

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Great info as always. So it's not a hugely complicated issue, where you have to heat up the manifold or anything before you start? I quickly read over the instruction page, and besides breaking studs it might be something I could even tackle. I guess if I break some I could have the car towed to finish the job, but if I can actually do the work that would be great.

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Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13

Current: 1967 Dodge Dart 270/225

Previous: 1964 Dodge Dart, 1966 Plymouth Valiant Signet, '64 Valiant Convertible

There's nothing terribly difficult about the job. Work slowly and carefully and pay good attention to what you're doing to minimize your odds of breaking a stud. Also soak down the studs with a good penetrant (Chrysler Mopar P/N 5318 039AC or Kroil) well before you begin.

If the car needs an exhaust system and you are thinking of upgrading, you can kill two birds with one stone (and prevent a repeat of the manifold crack) by installing Dutra Duals.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I see that good advice has already been given here. However, I would like to echo CEEJ's comments about upgrading to Dutra Duals or headers. I would go for the Dutra Dual option if this is a street car.

I had a modified rear manifold that had a crack in it a few years ago, I took it to a local welder and he fixed it up for me.
As was suggested, read and reread the manifold article on this site.
My two cents worth,
Wes

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

How much did it cost to get that manifold welded? We've considered that option, but this is a pretty good sized Y crack. Ideally it would be best to replace the manifold, but if it's a semi-inexpensive repair, we may just have it welded.

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Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13

Current: 1967 Dodge Dart 270/225

Previous: 1964 Dodge Dart, 1966 Plymouth Valiant Signet, '64 Valiant Convertible

In aus you can buy them off ebay for a couple of bucks if you wait for it, but generally around $20? then add shipping.

I did the job easily enough and I'm no where near as skilled as any of these guys ^.

I was happy that I ended up replacing most of the studs on the change over, I installed headders, it made a notiecable difference.

Now I'm doing a 2bbl swap with a 2nd hand manifolds, just had to use a file to get them to fit properly.

Goodluck.

The price was $25 bucks. He did a nice job too.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Find a welder who knows how to weld cast iron. It is done differently from regular steel. The weld needs to be tapped on, or hammered a bit, while hot, to be properly done.