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 Post subject: Carter bbd problem
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 11:15 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:49 pm
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Location: Farmersville, Ca
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I installed the super six on my 73 duster yesterday and I keep having the reoccurring problem.. the car runs good until I hit about the third or fourth stop sign in my neighborhood.. when I'm above 20 MPH it runs like a champ but commingle to a stop causes it to spit and sputter turning off at times.. the kickdown isn't working right either so would that cause anything? Any ideas?
Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:57 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2010 6:33 am
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Location: Missouri
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The kickdown shouldn't make a difference. While it is good to have it hooked up and working, it is not necessarily essential.

How does it idle once it is warmed up? Does it run better with the choke on?

A common problem with these carbs is the throttle shafts wear out and cause a vacuum leak. Check to see if your throttle shaft has play in it by wiggling the throttle arm, it should feel solid with no side to side or up and down movement.

Other problems are the idle tubes like to clog, and need to be cleaned out. This is a very common problem with the Jeep/Amc Carters.

See here: http://www.planethoustonamx.com/main/am ... rb_fix.htm


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:50 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Seams as your choke pulls off, idle becomes leaner. I would look for a vacuum leak once engine is warmed up by spraying carburetor cleaner at all gaskets in intake system, throttle shafts, and inspect soft vacuum lines for cracks, and power brake vacuum system if so equipped for vacuum leaks.

Next would be to check for correct float level, and plugged idle circuit passeges.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 2:30 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:49 pm
Posts: 27
Location: Farmersville, Ca
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Yeah I pulled the Carb apart yesterday to inspect it and clean the internals up it seemed like everything clear.. no clogged passages.. the throttle shaft is real snug and it reads 20 on the vaccum guage when I'm at idle.. today I messed with timing a little and it's not 2 bad anymore.. just has a small couple sputters during hard braking.. my idle is up high though just to keep it on.. don't have a tach but in park it sounds like 1200 to 1400 and in drive around 900 or so

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:29 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
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Quote:
the throttle shaft is real snug and it reads 20 on the vaccum guage when I'm at idle..

my idle is up high though just to keep it on.. don't have a tach but in park it sounds like 1200 to 1400 and in drive around 900 or so

With stock timing curve at those idle rpm, you are into mechanical advance, and transition circuit. Engine is turning over too fast at this idle rpm to see a vacuum leak. In other words, by opening throttle plates too much thus increasing idle speed by getting into transition & main jet circuit, air fuel mix is too great compared to conditions at a lower rpm for idle circuit and vacuum leak to make much of a difference. So the problem is still there, but masked. The tip off is that the engine runs so-so with choke still on making rich mixture which temporarily overcomes any vacuum leak.

Picture a squirt gun producing a stream of water next to a garden hose that is turned off. That gun representing idle circuit, and hose representing transition circuit & main jets. When both streams are combined the gun’s contribution is so insignificant it becomes moot to the total flow. You have cracked opened the garden hose portion of your carburetor by increasing throttle plate opening.

Plus with stock torque converter, car is near its stall rpm making for unsettled chomping at the bit stops in traffic while in drive.

You need to get that curb idle down to have engine run on idle circuit so it can be properly tuned. I still think you have a vacuum leak,
Quote:
just has a small couple sputters during hard braking..
and possibly an incorrect float level causing slosh during braking.

With timing set correctly, idle tuned, correct float level, no extra air entering (vacuum leak) that engine should sit there and tick over at 550 - 600 rpm all day without any problem, and accelerate smoothly from idle.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:40 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:49 pm
Posts: 27
Location: Farmersville, Ca
Car Model:
Thank you wjajr for the information.. ill try spraying some Carb cleaner In a couple areas and replacing some of the vacuum hoses just in case there are some small leaks.. I used a remflex gasket on the intake and exhaust so i doubt that it will b the source of any leaks.. but its worth a shot.. thanks again..

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