Well the Dart needs a new alt, and since the paperwork for the lifetime warranty on this one is lost, I need a good source for an alternator. I'd LIKE to get something higher than 60 amps, but I'll settle as 60 if I have to. Who do you guys usually use?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I see on a post above your are also looking for a Super Six setup for your Dart 225.
When and if you go to the junkyard, from the same Aspen or Volare get the alternator. They come stock at 55 amps.
Both my 77 Dart Wagon and 79 Volare have 55 amp alternators performing very well.

Rafa

Well not necessarily a Super 6, but just a bit of an upgrade to tide me over until I really start building it up (which will come after any and all repairs).

Now to source a new intake and exhaust manifold, and I'm set...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I recently put a 200A powermaster #8-47539 alternator in my duster. Despite what they said, it took some bracketry to get it to bolt on, but it was relatively simple. The unit is quite beefy and holds the electrical system at a constant 14.4V. You can chuck your voltage regulator as this alternator has one built in. To install you just run one wire from the terminal on it to + of battery (recommend at least a 4awg!)

I had to bypass the stock amp gauge because it would only go up to 40A... I installed an aftermarket voltmeter by my parking brake handle. Voltage is a more useful measurment.. imho at least. These units are pricy, about $350 if I recall right from summit, but very well worth it! Check out their website, www.powermastermotorsports.com

Excellent customer service over there... the unit I got had a serpentine belt pulley on it instead of a double V groove .. called them up and the right pulley on my porch in 2 days flat with zero hassle or cost.

Holy Cow, Pierre!! Are you looking to mount an on-board welder?! A 200 amp, one-wire alternator is getting into the area of capability that the hard-core off road boys use for massive lighting, power converters and welders.

Just what, (out of curiosity), are you planning on running?

Roger

200A is nothing.. in my research for higher powered alternators I've come across a company that produced alternators, when combined with two or three units total running in parallel can get you over 800A (made just for the purpose of welding....)

GTS, I just love having the power.. *does tim taylor grunt*

Oh before I forget, if you are looking for direct bolt-on alternators I was just going through powermasters webpage and it seems they do make a 80A unit that uses the same cases as our originals

An 80A unit would be perfect for this Dart. If anything out of the ordinary I'll have a good (read: no obnoxious bass levels, quality not quantity) stereo system in at some point, but that'd probably be the last thing I do.
Would I have to bypass or change out the volt meter if I put an 80A in there? I eventually plan to get an aluminum dash plate custom made that I can put all Autometer gauges in with my design, but I'd like a working Mopar gauge until then

Oh, and headlamps. I'd like to get some round Hella H4 lamps in there instead of the DOT lamps. Saw an older Cougar with those tonight and the light from it was amazing.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Well it depends on how you rig the thing. If you get a one wire alternator, then you can leave the stock gauge in there and run your own heavy wire from alternator straight to battery. If your stereo is hooked up directly to the battery everything will be kosher except that the gauge in dash won't reflect the stereo's draw

If your going to use the 3 wire model then.. well I highly suggest you don't use that 80a alt. with incar wiring because I believe the stock wire carrying the current from the alt. is 12g and thats kind of pushing it by possibly running 80a through it. You can beef up the car wiring by redoing the previously mentioned 12g with something thicker but thats just more of a hassle. Bypassing the gauge is easy, just take out the two wires going to it, and short them together (they are on ring terminals, put a small screw through them and a nut on the other side, as I did). Don't forget to insulate with tape or plastikote or whatever you have handy

I just put the voltmeter in there to make sure I can tell the charging system is actualy working while driving. It's only a peace of mind item (not required by any means) and can be easily installed by tapping into the fuseblock.

I actually do plan on rewiring it since the old wiring isn't to my liking (not perfect = not good enough), so that's not a problem. Does your voltmeter show when a draw is being put on the system?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Well the voltmeter just shows whatever the voltage is at that point in time. If say you don't have any alternator in and you turn on your lights, the voltage will drop. If you turn on your lights with the alternator running, and the alternator can keep up with the demand of the lights, you should see very little or perhaps no voltage drop. Keep in mind that the general rule is the higher rpm the engine is running, the more current your alternator can put out.

Yep that much I know. So pretty much just upgrade the wire size if I put in a higher output alt, then? If that's all, hell it works for me

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Yep.. theres an article on www.valiant.org about redoing the questioned wires. Or if you don't care about originality get a one wire alternator and just run one wire directly to battery. That way you don't need to worry about a regulator. I just left my regulator unplugged and insulated the ends of the wires that were hooked to the original alternator.

Well originality of the wiring is no concern to me, BUT I would still like to have the volt meter (which I'd like to try to find a combination volt/ammeter to replace it with when I redo the dash) show my charge and whatever draw I have.

I found Stan's article on rewiring for higher output, but he says to use 16 gauge wire, and that seems WAY small to me. I would think 10, 12 at the minimum for a good charge (but then again, overkill is my friend).

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

If a little is good, more is better, and too much is just right, right? You'd be right at home with the big cubic inch/stroker boys.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

Well I do plan on building and EFI-ing a 429 with dual fuel rails and dropping it into a 2005 Mustang once they're out

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me