Hi guys,

I'm finally getting around to doing a disc conversion on this valiant, I've got single pot calipers off of a '73, with all the suspension and poly bushings needing to be cleaned/painted/assembled, I've got an aftermarket anti-sway bar of currently unknown brand/diameter (it's buried in a cold garage and I'm tired) To sweeten the caliper/suspension purchase, the guy threw in a set of NIB .920 torsion bars. Are these too much for a stock '63 A-body? If not, what's the recommended shock to tame them? This is technically my wife's car, and while ride comfort certainly factors into things, (I like my fillings to stay put) Our cars definitely experience "Severe Duty" in my hands, and I'd like to make this one handle to match the brakes. Everything on the car is absolutely original saggy worn-out stock right now. Which then begs the next question. Will an 8 1/4 axle and leaf spring setup bolt in? Anybody selling one close to me with LBP, and around 3.23 gears? I've gone through many of the previous pages, I'm sure that the answer lies within and that I'm probably going to make SlantSixDan, or Lou or Josh repeat themselves, but there are 67 pages of threads to go through, and I'd appreciate the info

thanks in advance,
Matt

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63 Valiant 200
64 Dart 270
73 Fury II
84 Cherokee 2 dr
86 Dodge W-150
73 Volvo 144
74 Volvo 145
81 Volvo 245

I’m running 0.940â€￾ torsion bars in the 67 Dart, 1 1/8 inch anti sway bar, and it is softer riding than my 300C. In the sixties suspensions were a lot softer riding than today’s cars.

Coupled with an anti sway bar, the 0.940â€￾ bars provide flat cornering, no nose dive under hard braking, and a comfortable ride.

My 2 cents.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I put in "340" bars - 0.870" diameter - in my '64, and could definitely use heavier bars. The KYB's are OK, but I'd like to go with IAS's or something similar.
The length (front to rear) is different from the 7-1/4", so you may have to change the driveshaft. Are you still running the ball and trunnion U-joint, and is it still in good shape? This might be the time to convert.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I had just found that mentioned in the drivetrain section of the forum... Anybody have any idea of what the conversion would cost? I personally don't mind the ball and trunnion. my boots are in good shape, and the joint is tight. If there's a good reason to change it, such as it won't stand up to any serious power, then I will. My guess is, that since they put them behind baby hemis, it can certainly take a high zoot slant, but I could be wrong. I think I found a shop to shorten my driveshaft, but from what I heard, they'll want $100 or more... I've got a couple of spare shafts, I was thinking of building a jig out of a piece of track and some scrap steel and clamps to see if I couldn't cut it and weld it myself (I have more intuition and determination than disposable income) Anybody try this before? Am I an idiot?

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63 Valiant 200
64 Dart 270
73 Fury II
84 Cherokee 2 dr
86 Dodge W-150
73 Volvo 144
74 Volvo 145
81 Volvo 245

The ball and trunnion is a good, strong setup. It was even used behind some of the Hemi cars, as noted. If it's in good shape, service it and leave it.

But, if it's worn out, finding a new one might be tough. Since you're looking at driveshaft work anyway, look it over closely. If it needs replacement, consider the conversion to a cross-type U-joint.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Thanks for the info guys, I was getting nervous that hey were too fat for such a light car.

I appreciate the help,
Matt

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63 Valiant 200
64 Dart 270
73 Fury II
84 Cherokee 2 dr
86 Dodge W-150
73 Volvo 144
74 Volvo 145
81 Volvo 245

I HIGHLY recommend the Edelbrock IAS shocks for performance and comfort. They may have just been bought by QA1 suspension, but should still be sold as Edelbrock for a little while.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Lou,

All four corners I assume?

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63 Valiant 200
64 Dart 270
73 Fury II
84 Cherokee 2 dr
86 Dodge W-150
73 Volvo 144
74 Volvo 145
81 Volvo 245

If you have the cash, do all 4, yes. Way better than KYBs and by far the best non-adjustable shock I've used.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Sold!

Thanks again,
Matt

_________________
63 Valiant 200
64 Dart 270
73 Fury II
84 Cherokee 2 dr
86 Dodge W-150
73 Volvo 144
74 Volvo 145
81 Volvo 245

Got the same bars in my 63 with the same brake set up and works real well. My only complaint is that I put Poly bushings in the rear springs that cause harsh (noise mostly) and ride on ruff roads. Got KYB's on all four corners.
As far as the Ball & Trunion set up goes, Gene Snow a pioneer in the early days of Funny Cars once said that they put 800 + horsepower in front of them with no problems.
If you do go with the 8 1/4 and have to shorten your driveshaft, shops now are converting to a flange/slipjoint like 4x4 truck front driveshafts.
Cost on driveshaft work varies with region. I think it cost $500 + the last time I had a complete driveshaft made for the Valiant.

Even if you do your own driveshaft work and get it nice and straight, you may have to have it checked for balance,,, Just a thought.

Thanks, Romeo...

I had thought about the balance issue, and the shop that I had talked to in my area were saying that so long as the two halves of driveshaft didn't rotate when they were apart, the balance wouldn't change... Which makes sense in my mind, and I'm not a particularly sloppy welder, so I shouldn't have massive globbing throw it off... Who knows? worse case scenario, I totally botch it!

Matt

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63 Valiant 200
64 Dart 270
73 Fury II
84 Cherokee 2 dr
86 Dodge W-150
73 Volvo 144
74 Volvo 145
81 Volvo 245

If it's going to be driven above a crawl, I'd have it balanced.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Let us know how the front sway bar turns out, I don't have one on mine but tend to do so.