I tried to find out the answer to this question through the search option but with no luck. I am converting my 63 valiant to disc brakes. I have started getting the the parts. I have only the upper arms from a 76 valiant, and the drum spindles from the same car. I did not have a fork to remove. I am pretty sure I cannot use it without a custom swap kit. Do I need the lower control arms as well, or can I put the larger ball joint in my arm.

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A little rebellion now and then... is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government. Thomas Jefferson

Go to scarebird and buy a kit. That'll probably be easier than what you're attempting.

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63 Plymouth Valiant V200 Convertible.
225, HEI, Super Six with 38/38 Weber, Electric Fans, Scarebird discs, FirmFeel front swaybar.

I do not want the sbp, I want the bbp. Scarebird only offers the sbp.

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A little rebellion now and then... is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government. Thomas Jefferson

Parts you will need from a 73-76 disc brake a body:

Upper control arms, disc brake spindles, rotors, calipers, front hoses, master cylinder, metering block/proportioning valve

You may want to forego the used parts and get new calipers, rotors, hoses, and master cylinder.

While this is all apart, it is a very good idea to go ahead and replace upper and lower ball joints and control arm bushings, wheels bearings, brake pads, hoses, tie rod ends, lower control arm strut bushings, and the rubber hose between the rear axle and the metal brake line.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

One other thing you should be aware of: I don't know what the front track is on a '63 Valiant, but the '73-76 spindles will push the front wheels out about 7/8" farther on each side than they are on a non-disc brake car. I didn't like this look, so I used front wheels with more backspacing to pull them in a bit.

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Fab64..Love your barracuda. One of my favorite body styles of all time. I was aware of the offset. Thank you for the tip, not all is aware. Reed, you are as always a wealth of information. I do need the larger ball joint if my research is correct. Can I use my original lower arm or do I need the 76 Valiant's lower arm for the larger ball joint? Does the 76 have a better geometry for handling? Thanks in advance.

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A little rebellion now and then... is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government. Thomas Jefferson

You need the later ball joint but it will bolt up to your original lower control arm. A wider track in front is better for handling, but the 67-up A bodies had a wider track mainly due to the widening of the entire car body, including the k-frame and frame rails.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

As always Reed, you know these cars. But you have created another question. Since my car is a 63, the car and K member is narrower. Is the lower arm shorter? I have NO problem pulling the arms from the parts yard IF it would behoove me for a better handling car. I am planning, as well, to replace all wearable parts. Pay now, or pay later I always say. Thanks for your input.

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A little rebellion now and then... is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government. Thomas Jefferson

Thanks, mine too.

Here's an article from Mopar Action that I found quite helpful when I did my disc brake conversion.

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I believe the LCAs are the same length; it's the pick up points that moved.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

You have the right parts.....

You can reuse your LCA. Replace the 63 UCA and spindle with the later UCA and spindle. I reused the balljoints that came with the new UCA and spindle.

Good idea to find new rotors and calipers and hoses.

I used a stock disc manual M/C and combination valve

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I did the LBP disc swap on my '63 valiant wagon. you need to check the fit of the lower Ball Joint to the Control Arm. Specifically, a nub on the BJ hits a tab on the C/arm- acting as a steering stop. The shape of the nub & tab were changed. The 73-76 BJ didn't work with my 63 C/A, so I used late C/A, late L B/J, with late disc spindle & U C/A & BJ. I had to flip spindles left to right (calipers are now rear mounted) in order to clear the sway bar as I recall.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

I have done about five disc brake swaps, and never run into the tab problem, but I don't doubt it can happen. And swapping the spindles side to side is necessary if you have an early A with a factory sway bar. It also helps to run the really long 1980 Aspen/Volare front brake hoses if you swap spindles.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Cool, I'll try those Aspen hoses. I forget which ones I used but I don't like the hose routing I ended with (it gets an odd twist at full lock & is possibly a little too close to the sidewall under some jounce conditions)

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Thanks alot for your input. I now have a much better template to work from.

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A little rebellion now and then... is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government. Thomas Jefferson