Got the crank case back from Ed's shop,, will build it up as a short block, re-verify the piston recession numbers, then give Ed the final number for milling the head.

a few questions on the assembly process
1) I know about the putting sealant on the end manifold studs, I though I read that there is a water pump mounting bolt that also breaks into the water jacket,, if so which ones

2) for the lock tite on the cam bolt,, use the medium strength? Lock tite anything else? ( other than the galley plugs)

3) I'll dig out the posting on getting the oil pans seals right,, any other tips on gaskets..

4) is it recommended to pack the oil pump gear cavity with vasolene?

5) looks like the motor will be done a month or more before the chasse and body are ready,,, any issue with a new built engine setting that long before it is run? will the assembly lube stay in place?

6) and speaking of assembly lube,, while speaking with a a tech at Silvolite, I asked about that,he says he likes either Lucas or Torco,, any recommendations?

thanks
DT

DT, here's what i like to use. thin grease consistency, stays in place until the oil hits it on startup, then it liquefies and dissolves into the oil.

http://www.lubriplate.com/products/grea ... rease.html

andy.

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84 D100 /6 long rod 225
86 D100 /6 my sons w/offy intake/weber carb
2016 buick regal turbo

They are pushing Lucas at my local stores and the stuff tends to puddle like thick oil if you leave the engine for a couple of weeks, the other stuff they are selling is like a clear goo that does the same thing.

This last engine i put together with Isky Rev Lube, it's like the old school molly grease assembly lube that you can brush on and it stays put.

-D.Idiot

something i learned and will do next build...

mill the block vs the head... helps get the piston up for quench and keeps the valves in the head...

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

I say "NO" to Lucas.

Why? Well, I don't like it when companies tell lies. And that is what the Lucas people do. See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have used the red gooey permatex assembly lube, and have let motors sit for many months assebled with no ill effects.

Light or med strength loctite on the cam bolt.

Never bothered with oil pump packing, but it sounds like a good idea to me. I mostly fill my oil filter with oil and swftly invert and install it before it all runs out. Crank motor with ignition off until you get oil pressure, then hook up ign and fire it.

You will see which water pump bolt breaks through, just look. If using silicone on the WP gasket (I always do), then you should have no bolt leak. Can't remember that I've ever bothered to put thread tape or sealant on that bolt.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Here's a precaution I wish I had known when my slant was first rebuilt. Make sure the oil passageway feeding the rocker shaft is completely clear and unclogged. It is a small hole found in the rear pedestal that supports the rocker shaft. This hole is not down in the bottom of the threaded portion of the pedestal, but rather, it emerges through the outboard side of the smooth drilled hole in the pedestal. You'll notice that the shaft's mounting bolt for that rear pedestal is stepped, allowing the oil traveling up into the pedestal to flow past the bolt and up into the hollow shaft, delivering the pressurized oil to the rocker arms.

After starting my newly rebuilt slant for a break-in, I quickly realized it had absolutely no oil pressure. It took a while to figure out the problem. Once I cleared the hole of caked-in gunk, it was a gusher! By the way, the block was hot vatted and it did no good breaking up the solid plug.

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

i use a mixture of lucas and brad penn partial synthetic for EVERYTHING. it sticks, and stays. works good for filling oil pumps, and assembly lube, ive had a motor sit for over 2 years and tear it apart, and have the oil still on everything like it should.

oh, and i lock tite everything. for oil pans and brackets and stuff... blue, for major parts, like cam bolt, and flex plate, red.

To the additive i get it what about the Lucas brand oils and gear lubes? and speaking of additives, my grand father was a STP believer... He used it in everthing... with no ill effects, and was happy with the results after a couple of tear-downs of engines he had worn out. But then again this was in the 60's up to very early 70's... may he RIP... Just a thought, oil formulations have drastically changed in even the last 5 years, so its all irrelevant I would suppose... i remember buying the 'drippings' for i think 40 cents a quart and using it like it was water... (yeah car needed help, but i was a kid and hadta go,go,go... not overhaul an engine)...

Ps i have used stp and motor oil mix for pre assy, but i didnt let the engine set for any length of time, usually just overnight before the start-up and break-in

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MRO....

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