OK...I'm the one with horrendous timing problems that are finally resolved. I last left off here where the engine would not start without ether but when warm would purr like a kitten. I finally figured maybe it's the carb...it was a newly purchased reman from Holley. The Holley boys agreed to a swap. I just installed it. I once again hooked everything up and plugged any remaining vacuum ports. As an afterthought, I also plugged the overflow tube that should go to the carbon canister (since the canister is broken and I am having trouble finding another one). Anyway, it fired right up and ran super for awhile...hitting the throttle also brought immediate response. However, it later died. I got out and looked under the hood and could hear gas running into the carb throat. I disconnected the gas line and I am now airing it out. I had checked the float for sticking prior to installing and you could hear it move when turning the carb upside. Also, the seat secured well because upside down when blowing in the inlet, no air would pass but it would when upright (using my mouth). All that excess gas sounds like float problems (on another new reman carb)...or, my question is...do you suppose the overflow pipe should be open but if not connected to the canister it makes it difficult to start? What is up here? This is my third carb and each one performs drastically different, correcting one problem but adding a new one.

Help please on that overflow. This is my son's chosen car to restore with me and he is now 17, I would like for him to drive it before we both die of old age but right now I am having my doubts.

Put a hose on the vent fitting and run it down by where the canister goes and then fire up the motor (leave the vent open so it cant "air lock") give it a try

Justin

forgot to add, that this is how i've been running my vehicle and what i was told to do

Justin

I just fired it up again but without plugging that overflow. It started great and ran great again until the gas poured in the carb. I guess the float sticks or the needle does not seat properly. This is my THIRD Holley 1920 I have put on. I purchased the ones reman'd by Holley and paid more than the competition thinking they would do a better job. I am extremely upset with their quality. I suppose I could open the carb and fix it myself but it's the principle of the thing. I need to get back on the horn with them and swap yet again. I now believe that is my only remaining problem is to get the carb straight.

What a Pain in the A$$, but hate to say that this is not that uncommon when working with remanufactured carbs. Bottomline is that the core carbs are in all states of disrepair, some can be brought back to good working order, most carb cores are junk and will never run right again, no matter who or how much time is put into them.

These days I have learned to just do a quick rebuild on a carb, install a "quick kit", clean and adjust then give the carb a test drive, if it works well, then I spend more time with it. If it does not run right, I grab another core and try again. I usually go thru 2-3 before I get one I like.

Sounds like your current just needs a good needle valve or a simple float adjustment but why can't Holley get this stuff right???
DD