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 Post subject: Slanted Too Far
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
Posts: 1049
Location: Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
While trying to determine a way to get more clearance between my 2-1/4" headpipe and the torsion bar, I discovered that the engine in my '64 convertible is tilted beyond the designed slant, which leverages the pipe against the bar.

When I put a level across the carb, it reveals the passenger side of the engine to be about 1/8" lower than the driver's side.

The stock rubber mounts are new and aren't compressed at all, but oil pump clearance is nil, and the entire distributor side is close to interfering with the chassis. The car has never been wrecked, so it's not a bent K-member. Is this a common situation that I just haven't noticed on my other slant cars?

I believe installing a 1/8" spacer between the motor mount bracket and the engine bosses will resolve all the actual and potential interference issues, but I would like to hear opinions and comments.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:50 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Could be a collapsed rear (transmission) mount. Could be poor-quality left and right mounts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 9:35 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
Posts: 1049
Location: Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
The transmission mount is also new, and the motor mounts are the same dimension as the original Mopar mounts. They are aftermarket, and made in India, but they were thicker than the poly mounts I originally planned to use.
I decided against them because I was concerned about the obvious difference, but I didn't think to check the rubber mounts after installation. Had I been the one to install the engine, I might have noticed something amiss, but it was installed by the restoration shop that painted the car.

Shame on me for not checking, because I found a couple of other things that should have been caught by them.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 2:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:32 am
Posts: 19
Location: Montana
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Loosen the nuts under the mounts, tilt the motor where you want it , and re-tighten the nuts. The K-member is slotted to provide a bit of adjustment. Or use a simple spacer plate under the mount.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
Posts: 1049
Location: Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
Sorry, my original statement wasn't very clear...I wish I could use the slots for adjustment, but the mount studs are at the lower end of both slots, which won't allow me to shift the engine either direction.

I'd like to put a spacer between the mount and the K-member, but if I do, the stud will be too short, so that's why I think I'll have to put it between the mount bracket and the block. If I enlarge the slot on one side, I think the oil pan will ride against the K-member.

Working on this problem is like trying to fix a backlash on a fishing reel...no matter what I try to move, it seems to be connected to everything else in the universe. For some reason, with all the mount bolts loosened, the engine can not be jacked free of the frame, and I can't see where it might be binding!

If it's cooler tomorrow, I might be smarter and have a better temperment.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:25 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:36 pm
Posts: 184
Location: Lebanon, Or
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From what I read in your post, you are at the bottom of both slots. Loosen the Passenger side, lift motor with a jack, it should rotate on the driver mount, when you get to level go a little bit more, then tighten the Passenger side mount. It should move up in the slot, and not be at the bottom any longer. When you let the jack down, you should be where you want to be.(Passenger side mount should compress a little).

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