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 Post subject: MC push-rod installation
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:37 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:45 pm
Posts: 448
Car Model:
The rubber bushing (FSM calls it a ring) -

Do you place it in the cavity in the back of the piston and push the push-rod into it?

Or do you put it on the push-rod before insertion?

I can't find this detail in the factory service manual, and I can't remember how I did it once years ago.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 10:39 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 10034
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
Put it on the MC rod and then use your foot to "press" it into the receptacle in the MC with your foot on the brake pedal.

a bit of light oil or slippery vinyl treatment will help the rubber not get chewed up / destroyed during this process.


I am no0t sure if this is the "correct" way to do it, but I have many cars with this process done on and no problems!


Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 12:00 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Car Model:
"Do you place it in the cavity in the back of the piston and push the push-rod into it? "

That is how I do mine, a small amount of something slippery (water on the hole)!

Richard

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 12:58 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:45 pm
Posts: 448
Car Model:
I put it on the MC rod and I did feel a "pop" when standing on the brake pedal, but it did not link up.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 1:45 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
Posts: 626
Location: Illinois
Car Model:
Not all master cylinders have the grooved recess for a manual brake pushrod.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 2:12 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:45 pm
Posts: 448
Car Model:
I think this one does. *
It is a Raybestos MC36221.

I took the MC off the firewall and I am starting over with bench-bleeding.

The rubber bushing still looks undamaged...

It came with a new rubber bushing, but now I wonder because it looks like it might be a power brake-type without the recess.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ht=mc36221

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 1&start=15

I bought the MC several months ago (no time to install) and painted it with Eastwood brake grey, so I own it.

Anyone want a barely-used master cylinder, cheap?


*or maybe not

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end


Last edited by sixsignet on Sun Sep 30, 2012 4:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 3:30 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:45 pm
Posts: 448
Car Model:
OK.

I compared the backs of the old and new MCs.

The 36221 has a similar recess and step, but bigger diameter.

The 36221 piston is held in with a metal shipping tab or the rubber boot retainer. No e-clip.

The piston on the old MC has an e-clip retainer.

So, what is the best way to clear out the brake fluid from a master cyl so that you can ship it?

I guess I need a 36338 to get a 15/16 bore like my old one.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:59 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:45 pm
Posts: 448
Car Model:
It really looks like the new MC would work with an oversize rubber ring.
The stock one has a .475 OD, and it looks like a .5 OD ring would lock the rod in.
I think I will experiment with some heatshrink or electrical tape next weekend.

_________________
63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end


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