I've got other threads discussing this stuff, but since this is a separate thought, I thought I'd see if anyone has knowledge I don't...

What I want to do, is get a closer ratio transmission than my NP435 AND keep the 11 inch clutch and low starter in my 81 4x4.

What I've come up with.. is this: The A535 (NV2500) appears to have the same length input shaft as an A833OD. At least, those who've used it say it works on the bellhousing for the A833 with some hole adjustments.

And, it also appears to be the right length for the 435 bellhousing.

I found some pictures on one of the mopar websites, of how the 833 aligns with the 435 bellhousing. It put me to thinking that it just might work to use a plate between the bellhousing and transmission - perhaps 1/4 in or maybe 3/8 in, using existing bolt holes ( and some additional new ones) to fasten the plate to the 435 bellhousing. The shaft on the A535 has the same spline and diameter as my 435.

If I used a 1/4 in plate... could I have a machine shop take 1/8 in off the bellhousing and just FORGET about spacing the flywheel or anything else?

The plate would be retained by 4 large bolts near the top, and several small, recessed head bolts behind the transmission, and possibly some beside it through the plate to new holes in the iron face of the bellhousing.

Any thoughts?

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.

I just finished assembling my setup and will stab it into the duster at the beginning of the week.

I would have them face the bellhousing for 1/8", use a piece of 3/8" steel, and they only need to pattern it for the 4 holes in your NP bellhousing (they are wide enough to be out of the way of the A-833 style body with no overlap- and they use a very large bolt to hold the plate so fastening strength is not a problem) and the 4 holes on the 535 transmission and it will be good to go.

The A-833OD with the 5/8" aluminum spacer still has plenty of 'nose' into the crank pocket (the angled nose on the input shaft seems to be about 1/4" past the standard pilot bearing, so with less spacer you should be in good shape just bolting and going).

-D.Idiot

I'm sorry, I wasn't clear, I want to use the A535, not the 833. But the pattern for the 535 is not a lot different from the 833, according to a couple people here.

Thanks for the info on the length.

How "deep" is the bellhousing you're going to use? Motor face to trans face? I have an idea that the 435 BH might be just slightly more shallow.

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.

Am using. The mid-late 70's NP435 bellhousing is 7 1/4" from the motor mating face to the transmission mounting face. And it all has to be installed piece by piece...mount bell and adaptor, install flywheel, install clutch cover and disc (it gets tight after that...you have to roll the crank to get at the clutch cover bolts), I even had to install the clutch fork and TO bearing and then install the transmission since there wasn't enough room for proper angle to drive the clutch fork into the spring clips on the TOB...

-D.Idiot

I've done that job before on the /6, yeah, it's a pain. Even when out of the truck.

What did you use to center the plate's hole with the bellhousing hole for the IBR?

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.

Center the hole? We don't need to center the hole...

No really! LOL...a buddy and I made a jig to center the plate and bellhousing IBR hole so we could drill the mounting holes for the plate to bellhousing, then installed the tranny body to check centering.

-D.Idiot

Hmmm. I think I'd have someone make me something round to go into the hole, center it, then pin it in place by drilling and pinning two holes, and after that, it could be bolted down and not shift around the bolt holes.

Anyway, looking at this, there's going to be a big pile of stuff to fabricate... the trans mount, the transfer case shifter, and possibly adjust the driveshaft lengths and move the crossmember(s).

But, it begins to look quite feasible. And I would get to keep the 11 in clutch, and the low starter.

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.