My Dad and I are fixing up a 67 Valiant 200 4dr for my first car.
So far we have rebuilt the brakes; new drums shoes springs adjusters and wheel cylinders. Installed new shocks, replaced the metal in the rear lower quarters; still need to do the rockers and lower front fenders. Put in a new fuel tank as the original had pinholes in it and very dirty, blown out all the fuel lines and cleaned the carb, replaced the intake exhaust gasket as there was a vacuum leak at one of the intake ports.
Having trouble with getting the engine running smoothly.
it starts up fine and choke comes on and it idles high until it warms up. then while driving it runs hi but as soon as you pu the brakes on at a corner or stop sign the engine will stall unless you hold the brake and feather the gas pedal.sitting in the driveway the car idles with a surge evey 5-10 seconds, put the brake on and car into gear and it jumps and then stalls. Also we can screw the idle mixture screw all the way in or 3-4 turns out and it seems to make no difference. any suggestions; Thks.

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luv old cars

How are the hoses on the engine. Check vacuum advance, brake booster PCV choke pulloff. Sound like a vacuum leak or a fuel control problem. You cleaned the Carb? How? Taken apart? Was it rebuilt.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

In addition to checking the hoses for cracks and leaks, what do you have the engine timed at? It should be set at 5 BTDC if not higher. With known good smooth working distributors or recurved distributors most folks run at least 10 degrees BTDC. The timing will be a big factor in keeping it from stalling.

Another thing to check is the accelerator pump shot. With the engine off and the air cleaner removed, look down the carb throat and work the throttle linkage. You should see a huge squirt of fuel enter the throat. If not, the accelerator pump circuit is clogged or you may need to replace the pump diaphragm. The pump action gives the engine a shot of gas to transition from idle to the main jet.
When the accelerator pump is working correctly you should be able to break the rear tires loose.
Do you know what carb you have? If so, go to the Engine FAQ section and down load your carb manual and set up guide.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

hoses seem okay, can't detect any vacuum leaks around fittings when I spray brake kleen around them. They are old so I will replace vacuum hoses as they are inexpensive and could possibly have a small crack somewhere. A professional mechanic friend took the carb apart and cleaned it, blowing out all paorts etc and looked it over. he does a lot of carb work and did not feel it needed a rebuild, It was just dirty due to dirty fuel, which we have cleared up with new tank, blowing out the lines and 2 new inline fuel filters.

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luv old cars

What is your initial timing set at?
How strong is the pump shot?
How sloppy is your accelerator pump linkage?
That throws off pump shot timing....
Reference my past note.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG