I figured out the KH brake noise has been residing on right side, slight clunk, is from its pads sliding fore and aft when applied. How does one cure this? It looks as if the brake pad is a fraction of an inch too short allowing it to slide back and forth. Is there an inner and outer pad that I failed to recognize when installing the new KH caliper and pads a few years ago?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The first solution that comes to mind is to make a shim. Aluminum calipers often come with hard steel shims to keep the pads from abrading the caliper contact points.

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Joshua

I don't remember there being an inner and outer. Did you try any of those stop squeal concoctions you apply to the back of the pads? Its basically like high temp silicon that glues the pads to the pistons to keep them from moving or vibrating but can be pulled apart fairly easily when need be.

Yup, but this is not a squeal problem, inner pad slides within confines of caliper depending which way rotor is turning.

Josh: I'm not sure what a shim would look like for this stile of pad retainer. Could you make a sketch?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Pads can't slide if they are glued down. Sure your not just hearing the pistons pop loose from stuck seals? That's what I always attributed the noise from my KH setup to.

Whenever I used that stuff I'd always have to pry the pads up with a screwdriver, they wouldn't just pop loose. That stuff kept its grip until it pulled apart.

It could be an undersized pad "backing(s)" or wear along the caliper's mating edge. Garb another set of pads and take some measurements.
(I have never had a problem like that but it is something to keep in mind)
If the pads check-out "good"... my shade-tree mechanic's mind has me thinking about "zapping" and grinding a little MIG metal, to the edge of the pad(s), to get a tighter fit.

JB Weld would work in a pinch instead of welding. I'm afraid of what welding would do to the braking material. Yes it gets hot during braking but not molten metal hot. I'd probably do it on the caliper itself... more surface area for it to stick.

Pierre: I removed the wheel, and observed pad sliding fore and aft within confines of caliper. It travels about a sixteenth of an inch stop to stop. I suspect the rebuilt caliper was worn.
I’m afraid JB Weld won’t stand up to break heat, possibly it may not have sufficient compression strength where it would be bonded to the edge of pad, and may contaminate pad’s friction surface during a met down failure.

Doc: An easy fix, thanks for the shady idea… I seem to be devoid of original thoughts this summer.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Even with the stop quiet stuff that actually hardens? The one I used, small bottle and bright orange made by CRC - it sets up like glue but pulls apart like silicon. Sorry I don't mean to belabor the point... just trying to wrap my head around it.

Yes heat could be an issue for JB Weld - thats why I thought to put it on the caliper itself instead of the pads. If your going to weld on the pads - clamp it to a thick piece of metal (with a piece of wood on top so the clamp won't damage the lining?) with the end you want to weld sticking out and turn the heat down. Practice on your old set of pads if you have any... would suck if you ruined a set of pads trying to do this.

Yup that the same messy stuff I used. Not a squeal in the bottle. LOL

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC