I have a 1974 Plymouth scamp. I INSTALLED A HOLLY MODEL l 4160,390cfm carb on my slant six. I am installing a new fuel tank and fuel lie in my scamp. I would like to know if I need to connect the charcoal canister , and if so what ports do I connect to on my holly carb. thanks

You don't need the canister for any kind of performance nor will it effect it either- it's just a pollution device. It can't hurt to use it as it is better for the enviroment. You should have an emission hose routing label somewhere under the hood that will tell you where to plug them into, and you might have to get creative if you're using an aftermarket air cleaner

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83 B150 /6 4spd
97 JeepWrangler Sport 4.0
2001 VW Beetle TDI 5sp
2000 Nissan Xterra
73 Dodge B300 van

Actually, it leads straight to the gas tank, so if he keeps it hooked up it will act as a vent, in warmer weather and keep from purging gas all over his rear quarter panel.

That being said, you don't need to hook up the canister to the carb as: a)the holley does not have the proper ports for it being an aftermarket (non-emissions legal carb). So just get two rubber nipple/hose caps and install them on the unused ports on the canister and call it good.

-D.Idiot

Might as well remove the canister to save a pound or so and open up a little working room. Just a thought.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

There's nothing in that pocket to work on, the most beneficial "removal" in a 1974+ A-body is actually the overflow bottle because it allows best access to the radiator bolts and the alternator mounting bolts...If he removes it and caps the lines in the engine bay, the gas tank will build pressure and puke out the cap...If he leaves it the vapors will be caught by the medium and can be taken back in when the tank cools down at night or after a lot of air has passed over it on the road (also on cool days it will allow the tank to breathe and if he has tight tank gaskets the tank can create a vacuum and cause fueling problems until the cap is opened to relieve it). Been there done that, still have the canister, and no problems.

There are better weight savers on that style of A-body the biggest one is the late bumper shocks and reinforcements being replaced with 1974 Brackets. (That's about 60 lbs+ right there).

-D.Idiot

Rob- never confuse someone with facts! People like their myth that all emissions components are bad!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Well, gee, folks. I've never said, and don't believe that all pollution devices are bad. The canister's about the least likely emission item to have a negative effect on performance anyway, isn't it? I didn't suggest capping the vapor lines because replacing the canister with tubing would keep the benefits of the vent line to the tank.

My '64 darts have somewhat less room under the hood than the later models, so I thought more working room might be nice.

The best thing about ignorance its that knowledge beats it every time. Thanks for the enlightenment.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

The canister keeps your car from smelling like gas all the time.

Sam

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This is the single best reason for retaining it, if you just leave the lines as is and remove the canister the tank on warm days will just push evaporated gas under the hood and the car will smell like you just spilled fuel all over the engine bay. The charcoal medium will capture the vapors and keep the smell to a minimum (or non existent).

Having worked on a few pre-67 cars, I can sympathize with the wish for extra room.

-D.Idiot