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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 10:11 am 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 7
Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Hi,

I have been reading everything I possibly can on this great collection of posts, as well as any other reputable resource I can possibly get my paws on, and I wanted to say THANKS...great information here!

I wonder if you could point me in the right direction for starting at the beginning. I finally bought my dream truck, an 82 Dodge Power Ram with a /6 (No body rust!!) who's engine unfortunately had not been well maintained. I really want to fix it myself and I am starting with only the knowledge base of changing oil and tires. I am not an idiot, just a girl who wasn't allowed to play with her brothers cars....and I'm tired of being ignorant.

So, if there happens to be a patient soul out there that might share some wisdom I would greatly appreciate it. I managed to get help with the following: cleaned the carburetor, fixed the timing, new spark plugs/wiring, fixed a manual choke that wasn't functioning (don't know why that was put in there...) and other small tune up sorts of things. This got the truck running great for a few short test drives. Now it will not start unless I drop some fuel in where the choke is, or use carb cleaner there (I know this is not a good solution). Then it runs really well for a bit, and then bucks/halts sometimes recovering and sometimes stalling to then not restarting. This does seem to happen more when going up hill. A friend following behind me said my exhaust belched out some black smoke right before it stalled. Fuel/oxygen starved?

My current beginner thought as a cheap and first possible solution is to replace the fuel filter, and blow air in the line to clean out any gunk in the gas pickup? But if anyone has any other suggestions, or recommendations of how to educate oneself from the ground up that would be super.

many many thanks,
Liz

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 10:37 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:56 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: TEXAS
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Welcome to the forum!

If Slant Six Dan were here, he would recommend these 3 books(see link)
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15780

Cleaning the whole fuel system would be a start.

Put your location(State) in profile line. Someone may be close that can help.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 10:57 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13280
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Hello and welcome! Good for you for wanting to learn how to work on a car! That is something that too few women get taught in my opinion. My Mom used to drag race a Chevy, so she knows how to do some work on a car, and both my sisters know some of the basics.

Your problem sounds to me like a choke issue. I recommend ditching the manual choke and upgrading to a CarbsOnly automatic choke system. Read about them HERE.

First however, what is your starting procedure? You should be pushing the gas pedal about 1/3-1/2 way down to get a little squirt of gas down the carb to help start the motor. Carbureted engines need that little squirt of gas to get running, unlike fuel injected engine. If you are already giving the engine a little squirt of gas via the pedal when you try and start it, it sounds like your choke is either being held too far open or too far closed once the motor starts.

Black smoke is unburned fuel coming out the exhaust pipe, a sign your motor is running too rich. This suggests that the choke is being held too far closed and flooding out the engine.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:06 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 1:49 pm
Posts: 114
Location: murwillumbah,NSW,Australia
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Quote:
Black smoke is unburned fuel coming out the exhaust pipe, a sign your motor is running too rich. This suggests that the choke is being held too far closed and flooding out the engine.
What he said
But also:

Could be sticky needle and seat ,dirty fuel,clogged fuel line.faulty carb /choke,fuel pump failing,very dirty air filter.
The needle and seat is located where the fuel line enters the carby.
Usually looks like a longish brass nut.
This device lets the fuel enter the carby ,it is opened and closed by the float in the carby.
You can undo this nut ,and remove the needle beware it is very small.. Clean all parts with methelated spirits or carby cleaner and carefully re-install.
New fuel filter ,may help ,especially if fuel is dirty(think rust from tank)
Yes some compressed air down the fuel line may help,you should be able to hear the fuel bubbling in the tank when you blow through the fuel line back toward the tank(dont do this through the fuel pump)
Replace all fuel in the tank if it is of unknown age and quality.
Beware fuel will be spilt when working on the carby and fuel system,have a dry type fire extinguisher near by ,and in the vehicle ,seriously , fuel fires are not fun!

Grab yourself those books described earlier ,especially the factory service manual,they will prove to be the best tools you will own.
Have fun learning and stop by often. :D
Brendan.

_________________
1963 AP5 Valiant 225 PB 904 Stock except extractors & 2 1/4 inch exhaust.


1962 S series valiant 225 PB auto. factory every thing. Full restoration job.
Currently on hold till AP5 is on the road.


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 Post subject: many thanks
PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:57 am 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 7
Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Many thanks for the shared insights, and especially the book titles! I will start with reading 'till the cows come home and with cleaning the fuel system.

That should keep me busy for a while!

thanks again; I appreciate your time in replying.
Liz


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 9:48 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 6:55 am
Posts: 171
Location: SheCawGo, SillyNoise
Car Model:
Liz, welcome to the slantness, you're in good hands here!

The fine folks here kept me on the right path with my first ever slant 6 project and despite a few daunting moments, my DIY overhaul turned out awesome. I just gifted that car to my girlfriend and she's already getting back into the car thing again so now I'm hoping she follows the same path as you and takes on some of future work herself. I know I could use a break!

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1966 Coronet Deluxe
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 10:02 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:19 pm
Posts: 291
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Just my 2 cents here. Stalling a little more while climbing hills? Might have a look at your fuel pump.

_________________
66 Valiant, 225.
84 Van, 225.
71 Maxi-Van, 318
60 Valiant wagon, 225
87 Maxi-Van, 318 4spd


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2013 3:08 am 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 7
Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Quote:
Just my 2 cents here. Stalling a little more while climbing hills? Might have a look at your fuel pump.
If majority rules, this is definitely the first line of defense....my local friends are firmly in that same camp. Thank you for your two cents, as it solidifies that I will try that....some one casual mentioned that it is easy to test the fuel pump, rather than just replacing it. But, they didn't have time to explain...so now I'm waiting to get my hands on some books in the hope that they will explain sufficiently.

Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:22 am 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 3:33 am
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Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Just in case any one was interested in what it took to fix the problem: a leaking gasket was letting it suck in air... at the bottom of the carburetor. $5 and I fixed it myself!

:) This is not to say that it is running great; but it does run now with out the random halting/bucking stalling issue. Now to figure out why it is so hard to start, and does not like to be driven gently.

Thanks again for your help; all good suggestions. Glad the most simple solution was the right one!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 12:13 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5613
Location: Downeast Maine
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Welcome to the site RedMudHen.
Quote:
Just in case any one was interested in what it took to fix the problem: a leaking gasket was letting it suck in air... at the bottom of the carburetor. $5 and I fixed it myself!
Ahhh, good work, and we always like to hear what caused a problem and how it was rectified. That condition is called a vacuum leak** where atmospheric pressure pushes additional air in to air/fuel mixture at a compromised gasket or hose causing mixture to go lean. In other words, too much air mixed with too little fuel that will cause engine to pop back up carburetor, fall flat on acceleration, make for hard starting, and bucking or surging sensation driving along flat ground or uphill…

**As you can see the nomenclature ‘vacuum leak’ is not a leak of vacuum but just the opposite. LOL

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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