Now that the winter is fastly approaching its time to start my new motor build.
But first I have a minor issue I could use some advice and hopefully some experience with. I took a set of 198 con rods to my machinist to reconditioned and to have some arp studs installed. Will after he installed the studs he noticed that the studs were flared out enough to hamper the rod cap from closing fully. So has anyone had this issue it looks to me that there's a small lip on the edge of the rod that's interfering with the lip on the studs. And when we compared the new stud with the old one's the old one's had a flat edge which would give the stud a flat surface to center its self. So what have you guys done clean the edge of the con rod or put a flat on the arp stud.?

Aaron

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Sounds like at one time it was a rod that ended up at a reconditioning facility like TRW or other private label places. It sounds as if it was reconditioned offcenter and now from what you are describing, the rod bolt is protruding into the housing bore slightly. You need to toss it and get another one, don't try to modify the shank of the bolt in anyway as this will compromise its integrity and it will fail at some point if you do, especially considering its intended use. You might also check the side clearance width of them before you go too far, its also common for those rebuilders to grind too much off of them in their attempt to "fix" them for resale.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Aaron & Scott,

The condition you are describing is maybe not "normal" but it is common with our Slants. The last 3 sets of ARP bolts that I put in were the same way. When the rod bolt is pushed almost the whole way in, it hits the side of the rod and gets tight and may not go the whole way in, or it may be forced in on a bad bind. I think Doc mentioned this in one of his rebuild article. I just touched the side of the bolt head that is hitting the rod against a grinder wheel and they went right in.

Of the 3 sets I did, 2 were stock, never reconditioned rods. The other set had been reconditioned.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

After re-reading your post, I am not sure you are describing the same issue I have seen. It may be something different. Sorry.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Rick what you described is exactly what I'm seeing its on all six rods and you can see if you look closely that there is a small wear mark on the end of the arp stud after we pressed one set out to examine what was going on. My machinist waned me to look and make the call I was thinking like you were only taking maybe a 1/16 inch needs to be taking off. And I figured it would. Be. Better to take it off the stud then the rod.

I'll get some pics tomorrow he's pressing the studs back out.

Aaron

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

I think you'll need to show pics, because what your describing isn't what we are picturing. If you are talking about the head of the bolt where it seats into the rod beam area, that is normal on most all connecting rods I have ever reconditioned and prepped and helps hold the bolt in place especially if they don't have a tight press fit into the rod. You just want to make sure you are not actually shearing metal away from the rod, but only just lightly rubbing it with the bolt head as it is pressed into it.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Ok, good then. You can just lightly grind it and it should be fine. Mine had so much interference they would have never seated fully in the rods.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Yes Rick, is this what Aaron is describing, it sounded more like his issue was at the rod and cap parting line to me instead of what you and I are talking about.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Ok this is a stock 225 rod. Where the yellow line is there is there is a small lip on the arp stud and with the factory ridge the way it is it rubs in the Aera of the yellow line and its enough to add a small angle on the stud and it toes the studs out.
Is this what your experiencing also Rick?

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

I've had my last two builds where the shelf is a bit narrow and it toes the stud toward the inside making it impossible to pull the rod cap off the rod without a "rod stretcher", and a really violent pull...makes for a not so easy install in the engine either.

I know that the ARP studs are interchangeable (the cast part number vs. the forged rod number), and noticed that sometimes the head on one type may fit better than the head of the other type depending on the condition of the rod (the only reason I know this, is that the last two engines I pulled apart 1-early 70's forged crank, 1- early 80's cast crank both had the wrong style of aftermarket rod bolts installed, and both engines had loads of miles on them since the rebuild...the early 70's engine ended life with a hole in the piston and the 80's engine was just worn out..).

-D.Idiot

Yes Aaron that is what I am seeing. Mine toes the rod bolts inward also.
Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Left stud is the arp stud the right one is a stocker which is completely flat on one side


Bottom is stocker
Middle is a pic of arp stud with a witness mark
Top hopefully you can see the small ridge on the arp stud

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611