Should I replace the whole front B&T U-joint along with the rubber boot?

Noticed on my recent underbody expedition to replace the rear trans mount on my 63 225 with automatic that the front ball & trunnion U joint boot is basically gone. Small remnants remain. Judging by the amount of dust covering this small section of shaft and looking at what remains of the boot, the boot has been gone for years and I never noticed.

So in doing everything else on the car, I'm adding this to the list. Don't think I'm up to do this myself, given I understand there are shops specifically for this purpose which tells me special equipment is needed to separate the driveshaft from the joints, etc.

In talking with a local mechanic, he suggested that since the boot needs replacing, I should replace the whole B&T U-joint since we don't know how long the boot's been gone, what wear has developed on the joint since it's had no grease, and they're going to be separating the very parts that need to be removed in order to replace the grease boot, so why not? No sense in paying for the labor twice.

I think it's a sound idea: anyone have thoughts about this before I spring for the U-joint rebuild kit from Andy Bernbaum that has the boot as well as rebuild parts? Don't really want to convert to the cross and roller U joint yet.

I think the logic is spot on for the reasons stated. Also, if you didn't know, they used the b&t joint on the Hemi racecars, so don't worry about strength.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

If it is not vibrating going down the road, then I would leave it alone as the "rebuild" might do more harm than good.

I have made a "boot" by wrapping 2-3 layers of hardware store polyethylene tarp material around it, about 8-10" wide to go down the shaft a bit and up to near where the pot bolts to the trans flange, and then tightly fastened it with zip ties (3-4 locations along the shaft) so there is nothing flapping around. This worked for at least 10k miles on my 64 Dart and I just did this on my 64 Valiant.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, how would a rebuild do more harm than good?

Have you ever bought a "rebuilt" parts store part that didn't work or was crappy quality? I have, MANY times.

Most mechanics are not used to jobs like this and can easily leave something out or screw up installation of some key piece. Old school thinking was not simple "r'n'r", it often involved swedging things with hammers/punches, or special tools, or machining. Also, replacement parts (even spicer) can often be inferior quality to the factory stuff made 50 yrs ago.

If you are comfortable with your guy and how the rebuild process works, go for it. Personally I would leave it alone if it is not vibrating. I would rather replace a cobbled plastic "boot" every 10-20k miles...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Fair 'nuff. Thanks.

do you run a driveshaft loop? it might be something to consider!

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1964 Dart GT

So if I de-dust, de-grease what's under where the boot should be (that short section of shaft), and my guy re-greases everything after putting the boot back where it should be, the indicator of a 'bad' universal joint would be vibration? Like how much vibration? Would it cause the passenger compartment to rattle, such that I would wonder where it's coming from?

How can one tell that a U-joint needs to be replaced? Vibration is all well and good, but a lot of things are vibrating around there while driving, so there has to be some way you know it's definitely the U-joint over say, engine or tranny vibration.

Put the car up on jack stands, grab the driveshaft, twist it and push it and pull it in all directions. Also, listen for a clunk when you put it in gear. Any clunk, movement, or twisting of the driveshaft means the u-joints are worn out.

Honestly, I thought that B&T service parts had become obsolete and unavailable years ago. My recollection was that the preferred fix was to convert to a standard u-joint that can be lubricated and replaced.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The B+T that I had many years ago that had some wear in them would get a kind of a "shudder" at low speed. Maybe 10-15 MPH under load and then as soon as you would get over that speed it would smooth out and not be noticed, even at 60mph.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks. I'll give it a check. On rare occasions, it does 'clunk' when shifting into gear, but usually it's when I shift into reverse. And it's not frequently this happens.

I am looking for a new boot for my wife's car. Does this Andy guy have contact info? Or is there a known CV joint boot that will work? Thanks in advance.
Andrew/Kidd

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-universal-joint.aspx

Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts, Inc.
93 Border Street
West Newton, Mass 02465

Main Office: 1-617-244-1118
Phone Orders only: 1-800-457-1250
Fax: 1-617-244-1164

orders@oldmoparts.com

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1964 Dart GT

sorry to hijack the thread. i have recently (about a fortnight ago) emailed orders@oldmopars.com and haven't had any response. Are they still operating?
I need B&T joints for a 1930 Dodge. Would anyone have any idea whether they maybe the same as the 1933 ones listed on the oldmopar site?

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1967 VC Valiant

Don't hold me to this but,,, I have heard that a replacement boot from a front wheel drive front axle will work. They even have the zip-loc type that the part won't have to be disasembled. If you have a good part store guy that is willing to do a search for a size match. Just a thought.