I have LCA's from 74 dart with factory sway bar tabs and I (now) have an upper sway bar (same vintage), pins and brackets.

I have a '67 dart; has anyone mounted the new mopar sway bar to the '67 K frame? Anyone have pics? Can I use the factory mounts from the new bar or do I need to fabricate something special?

thanks all,

BG

The newer K frame has a passage through for the sway bar, do I need the new K frame as well or is there a way to cut/make passages in the existing older K frame?

If I switch to a newer K frame, what else has to be swapped? I have the LCAs will get UCAs for disc brake conversion anyhow.

bg

At a minimum you need the newer k frame and newer lower control arms.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I have the new LCA's, I'm refurbishing now.

Can I swap out the K frame without pulling the engine? I'll be changing the LCA's, UCA's for the disk brake conversion, if I could swap K frames (idler arm, whatever else I need) without pulling the engine I'd be a happy camper...

On the other hand I've seen other sway bars that are mounted to the existing older K frames; not sure if that was with the newer LCA tab location or not, but I assume so, since Hotchkiss, e.g., sells those weld on tabs for older cars and the instructions say to weld where the newer LCA's have the tab...

I was telling Rob, I'm half tempted to cut a path in my old K-frame and weld in a 2 x 4" square channel (say 1/4" thick steel) with a couple supports across the open side - make my own K frame custom for the newer sway bar...might actually be easier than swapping out for the newer one. OK, if I do this crazy project I'll be sure to post pics...

I suppose you could if you built some kind of gantry to support the engine while you dropped the K-frame.
The 67-72 factory sway bar mounted in front of and below the older K-frame. Very exposed. The sway bar tab location on the lower control arms was also different than the 73-73 tab location.
I say just swap in a newer K-frame. You will get the better spool mounts that way too.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I could support the engine somehow, if at least with a cherry picker. I could put some support under it until I was ready to rebolt the new K frame.

Rob says I may also need a new idler arm, pitman arm and steering link and spool motor mounts. Can somebody send me pics of each of these..what are the spool motor mounts, how is the new K frame different there? The pitman arm is the one between the steering box and the steering link, right? Which is the idler arm?

Anybody have a newer K frame and assorted items for sale?

Bg

Yes, I looked at the Hotchkiss setup, it looks awfully low to the ground...

but here's one on the boards, on a '67 that looks pretty good.

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... ar+k+frame

bg

OK, I did some research and what I need is a sway bar that mounts to the 73-76 factory sway bar tabs on the LCA's, like a Hotchkiss, BUT where the bar is configured over the K frame support in the front of the K frame. The link below shows one over the K frame front support on a '67, but the sway bar is mounted using the lower shock bolt in this case. The factory tabs on the 73-76 lower LCA, and this sway bar pictured, would interfere with the strut at the LCA.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=124741

Is there an aftermarket front sway bar that works with the 73-76 LCA sway bar tab and mounts to a '67 K frame with the bar over the K frame front support?

If not, I'm very tempted to do surgery on my '67 K frame (in place) to create a channel for the factory 73-76 sway bar (or aftermarket sway bar for '73-76). I kind of want to try this just to see if I can do it... K frame probably needs some rewelding anyhow 'cause the spots come loose over time.

bg

Duh...I could just use the lower shock bolt and forget that I have the factory tabs on my 73-76 LCA's......if the L brackets for the sway bar that bolt to the K frame are flimsy (I think someone said) I can fabricate super heavy duty ones myself.

Thoughts anyone?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

That's high on my list, because I like how the later sway bar passes through the K frame, seems like a much better more thought out arrangement.

This is thebracket I used to attach sway bar to front of K Member when replacing junk Addco universal angle iron mount. It is identical to factory mount, and bolts up using factory holes. Like I said I had to do a little egging of larger bar's bushing retainer bolt holes to mate it this bracket.

The angle iron pieces Addco supplied were plenty strong enough, the problem was the K Member where only two bolts attached the angle iron to it. Using Addco's lower shock bolt angle attachment method is strong enough if a grade 8 bolt is used, and torqued correctly.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Very clean engine compartment, nice work. What brand of aluminum fan did you use?
I used 2 x 2.5 Hookers into a Y and then into one 3'' in and out muffler with a TTI 3'' tail pipe. It sounds really good.
Excellent details.

Derek

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70 Duster 238'', four speed ,3:91's, 500 Elde, Hookers
68 Dart 4 dr 225, completely original

The shock bolt mount for the anti-sway bar link has two problems:

1. The Addco tab is flimsy and unstable. In hard cornering it tends to bend and/or rotate around the shock bolt. The latter serves to loosen the nut.
2. The Addco tab requires an anti-sway bar that is 3-4" longer than the factory bar. There isn't a lot of room between a 73 & > caliper and the anti-sway bar to begin with. Collision between the bar and caliper is likely to result yielding damage to the bar and reduced turning radius.

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You can't fix stupid. - Ron White

People who experience this in pre-72 cars typically swap their spindles side to side so the caliper is on the opposite side of the disc from the position of the sway bar...If you did a drum brake to disc swap on a '73m, it sounds like it was installed with the spindles swapped when installed?

See this pic/article:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tech ... to_20.html

-D.Idiot